Here's a follow-up article to the earlier one written in the wake of Don Valente Nieto's sudden passing, confirming that the Doña Rosa black pottery tradition continues:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/dona-rosa-picking-up-the-pieces--of-barro-negro-black-pottery
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
7/27/2010
7/26/2010
From Oaxaca to Huatulco
Combining the rich Pre-Hispanic and Colonial culture of Oaxaca City with relaxation on some of the best beaches in Mexico could be a formula for the perfect vacation. The question is how to get from Oaxaca to Huatulco, or Huatulco to Oaxaca and is not as difficult as it may seem. If you are coming on either Continental Airlines via Houston or on Mexicana Airlines via Mexico City, it is possible fly into Oaxaca and return from Huatulco (or vice versa). The cost is only a few dollars more and you save a travel day.
To get from Huatulco to Oaxaca there are several options. (Contact information will be provided at the end of this blog.)
• The easiest is the 35 minute commuter flight on Aerotucan. If your time is limited, this is the best option at about $120 USD. There is one flight each way every morning so you have the entire day to enjoy at your destination.
• There is a First Class Bus that goes Via Salina Cruz and takes about 9 hours, including a stop for Lunch. This bus is comfortable and if flying is outside your budget and you are not adventurous this is likely the next best option. There are two departures daily morning and evening. Some people take the night bus thinking they will sleep during the trip and save a day to enjoy at their destination. My experience has been that I arrive exhausted and the day is a loss. Take the day trip and enjoy the scenery.
• The Second Class bus leaves almost every hour and goes via Pochutla, 45 minutes from Huatulco, where you would need to change buses. The route is a about 6 ½ hours from Pochutla. The bus is not bad but the route is windy. I will say more on about this later, under executive van service. Other than the twists and turns, the biggest downside of this is to change buses.
• There are two executive van services directly from Oaxaca to Huatulco which take about 6 ½ hours cost is 150 pesos either way. This service takes a similar route as the second class bus but uses a cut off going via Pluma Hidalgo, avoiding Pochutla altogether. I am going to describe this trip in a moment
• Of course you can rent a car and drive either route. The downside is that you would probably have to drive both ways because the drop off fees is enormous. Furthermore, the need for a car in either Oaxaca or Huatulco is minimal, never mind that parking in Oaxaca is a nightmare. Taxies in both destinations are inexpensive (30-40 pesos or about 2.50-3.00USD per trip, by the hour taxis cost about 120 pesos). If you do drive, either route can be beautiful but the person behind the wheel does not get to see much. You really need both eyes on this road. The southern route, Highway 190, is an easier drive and there is a toll road which eliminates going through Salina Cruz, cutting about an hour off the bus trip.
The Executive Van service from Huatulco to Oaxaca
First off do not be fooled by the term “executive”, this is not a luxury trip. It is the shortest distance between two points and if your expectations of comfort are not too high the trip is excellent value with spectacular scenery. You actually pass through several separate different eco systems:
Leaving the tropical beach climate of Huatulco with palm trees and banana plants you quickly climb into the coffee growing region of Pluma Hidalgo where some of the world’s best shade grown coffee is produced. This is where the road gets pretty rough. Most of this trip is on pavement of varying quality, but there is a cut off onto an unpaved gravel and dirt road for about 20 minutes.
Returning to highway 175 you will begin to see pine trees as you continue to climb into the cloud zone. This trip is more dramatic in the rainy season but even in the dry season the area will be green and possibly misty as you drive though thin clouds. I grew up in western Canada and these are not the pines I am familiar with. Some of the mature pines exceed 20 meters in height but the pine needles are only on the top third of the trunk. These needles are very different from Spruce or Fur trees. They can be up to four inches long and grow in tufts, with new growth at the ends and older growth fanning out beneath, resembling small birds. These trees are unique in appearance and I had made this trip a couple of times before I actually recognized them as pines.
Driving through this region can be treacherous due to both low visibility in the cloud zones and a series of hairpin turns, sometimes you literally have to hang on to your seat. When it is clear the views are breathtaking and there are no guardrails to block your view. This portion of the journey lasts about 3 hours with a short stop for refreshment and a bathroom break. The washrooms are basic “outhouses” hanging over the side of a cliff with a “manual flush toilet”. This means that you fill a bucket from the tap outside and pour it down when you are done. Bring your own paper! The road is dotted with small “comedores” where you can have a quick meal. This will be traditional Oaxacan cuisine, usually with a choice of beef or chicken… if you are really lucky grilled Armadillo may be offered. Being prone to motion sickness I pass on the food when taking this trip, but it is an excellent opportunity to try some real home cooking. Even in summer the air can be nippy up here with the aroma of pine smoke hanging gently in the mist, in the winter it is downright cold.
As you descend into the foothills surrounding Oaxaca City the contrast of burnt red earth against green fields is striking. Trees become smaller with more shrubbery and as you approach the valley of Oaxaca cactus is more prominent. Even in the rainy season the earth is noticeably dryer. In addition to seeing numerous burros along the roadside you are likely to see farmers plowing their fields with pairs of oxen. Common crops are Corn, Nopal, a flat leaf cactus commonly eaten as a vegetable and Agave, for brewing mezcal. The road widens once you reach the valley and is mercifully almost straight for the last hour of the journey.
This trip is not for everyone but if you decide to take it there are some tips that will make the journey easier. The front passenger seat is seat # 1, this is the best one in the van. The next best is the row right behind the driver. You do not want to be riding in the back seat nor do you want to be in the middle seat beside the driver. Most vans have bucket seats but it is worth asking before you book. Sliding around on a bench seat with three other passengers gets tired quickly on the switchbacks. You can book your seat in advance but is rarely necessary to book more than a day ahead. There are several departures daily so, with some flexibility, it is usually possible to get one of the more desired seats. I would advise against leaving later than 2:30 PM to avoid being on the road after dark. Some vans are in better shape than others but don’t expect the shocks to be in good shape. Consider the trip an “adventure” and enjoy the ride.
Contact information:
Mexicana Airlines: www.mexicana.com
Continental Airlines: www.continental.com
To book to Huatulco and from Oaxaca (or vise versa) it may be necessary to book 2 one way fares, or click on multiple destinations.
Note: With the exception of Christmas, Day of the Dead or Easter, you should be able to book fares on any of the following a day or two before your departure.
Aerotucan: Phone Huatulco (958) 587 2427
Phone Oaxaca (951) 502 0840
First Class Bus: Phone toll free in Mexico 01 800 702 8000
Phone toll free outside Mexico 011 800 950 0278
www.uno.com.mx there is a morning bus but it does not show up on the booking site, I called and it does exist.
Second Class Bus: no Reservations, just show up.
Executive Vans Huatulco 2000: Phone Oaxaca (951) 516 3154
Phone Huatulco (958) 587 2910
Executive Vans Cacaluta Unidos: Phone Oaxaca (951) 516 8529
Phone Huatulco (958) 584 7339
Credits to: Brooke Gazer from Villa Agua Azul
To get from Huatulco to Oaxaca there are several options. (Contact information will be provided at the end of this blog.)
• The easiest is the 35 minute commuter flight on Aerotucan. If your time is limited, this is the best option at about $120 USD. There is one flight each way every morning so you have the entire day to enjoy at your destination.
• There is a First Class Bus that goes Via Salina Cruz and takes about 9 hours, including a stop for Lunch. This bus is comfortable and if flying is outside your budget and you are not adventurous this is likely the next best option. There are two departures daily morning and evening. Some people take the night bus thinking they will sleep during the trip and save a day to enjoy at their destination. My experience has been that I arrive exhausted and the day is a loss. Take the day trip and enjoy the scenery.
• The Second Class bus leaves almost every hour and goes via Pochutla, 45 minutes from Huatulco, where you would need to change buses. The route is a about 6 ½ hours from Pochutla. The bus is not bad but the route is windy. I will say more on about this later, under executive van service. Other than the twists and turns, the biggest downside of this is to change buses.
• There are two executive van services directly from Oaxaca to Huatulco which take about 6 ½ hours cost is 150 pesos either way. This service takes a similar route as the second class bus but uses a cut off going via Pluma Hidalgo, avoiding Pochutla altogether. I am going to describe this trip in a moment
• Of course you can rent a car and drive either route. The downside is that you would probably have to drive both ways because the drop off fees is enormous. Furthermore, the need for a car in either Oaxaca or Huatulco is minimal, never mind that parking in Oaxaca is a nightmare. Taxies in both destinations are inexpensive (30-40 pesos or about 2.50-3.00USD per trip, by the hour taxis cost about 120 pesos). If you do drive, either route can be beautiful but the person behind the wheel does not get to see much. You really need both eyes on this road. The southern route, Highway 190, is an easier drive and there is a toll road which eliminates going through Salina Cruz, cutting about an hour off the bus trip.
The Executive Van service from Huatulco to Oaxaca
First off do not be fooled by the term “executive”, this is not a luxury trip. It is the shortest distance between two points and if your expectations of comfort are not too high the trip is excellent value with spectacular scenery. You actually pass through several separate different eco systems:
Leaving the tropical beach climate of Huatulco with palm trees and banana plants you quickly climb into the coffee growing region of Pluma Hidalgo where some of the world’s best shade grown coffee is produced. This is where the road gets pretty rough. Most of this trip is on pavement of varying quality, but there is a cut off onto an unpaved gravel and dirt road for about 20 minutes.
Returning to highway 175 you will begin to see pine trees as you continue to climb into the cloud zone. This trip is more dramatic in the rainy season but even in the dry season the area will be green and possibly misty as you drive though thin clouds. I grew up in western Canada and these are not the pines I am familiar with. Some of the mature pines exceed 20 meters in height but the pine needles are only on the top third of the trunk. These needles are very different from Spruce or Fur trees. They can be up to four inches long and grow in tufts, with new growth at the ends and older growth fanning out beneath, resembling small birds. These trees are unique in appearance and I had made this trip a couple of times before I actually recognized them as pines.
Driving through this region can be treacherous due to both low visibility in the cloud zones and a series of hairpin turns, sometimes you literally have to hang on to your seat. When it is clear the views are breathtaking and there are no guardrails to block your view. This portion of the journey lasts about 3 hours with a short stop for refreshment and a bathroom break. The washrooms are basic “outhouses” hanging over the side of a cliff with a “manual flush toilet”. This means that you fill a bucket from the tap outside and pour it down when you are done. Bring your own paper! The road is dotted with small “comedores” where you can have a quick meal. This will be traditional Oaxacan cuisine, usually with a choice of beef or chicken… if you are really lucky grilled Armadillo may be offered. Being prone to motion sickness I pass on the food when taking this trip, but it is an excellent opportunity to try some real home cooking. Even in summer the air can be nippy up here with the aroma of pine smoke hanging gently in the mist, in the winter it is downright cold.
As you descend into the foothills surrounding Oaxaca City the contrast of burnt red earth against green fields is striking. Trees become smaller with more shrubbery and as you approach the valley of Oaxaca cactus is more prominent. Even in the rainy season the earth is noticeably dryer. In addition to seeing numerous burros along the roadside you are likely to see farmers plowing their fields with pairs of oxen. Common crops are Corn, Nopal, a flat leaf cactus commonly eaten as a vegetable and Agave, for brewing mezcal. The road widens once you reach the valley and is mercifully almost straight for the last hour of the journey.
This trip is not for everyone but if you decide to take it there are some tips that will make the journey easier. The front passenger seat is seat # 1, this is the best one in the van. The next best is the row right behind the driver. You do not want to be riding in the back seat nor do you want to be in the middle seat beside the driver. Most vans have bucket seats but it is worth asking before you book. Sliding around on a bench seat with three other passengers gets tired quickly on the switchbacks. You can book your seat in advance but is rarely necessary to book more than a day ahead. There are several departures daily so, with some flexibility, it is usually possible to get one of the more desired seats. I would advise against leaving later than 2:30 PM to avoid being on the road after dark. Some vans are in better shape than others but don’t expect the shocks to be in good shape. Consider the trip an “adventure” and enjoy the ride.
Contact information:
Mexicana Airlines: www.mexicana.com
Continental Airlines: www.continental.com
To book to Huatulco and from Oaxaca (or vise versa) it may be necessary to book 2 one way fares, or click on multiple destinations.
Note: With the exception of Christmas, Day of the Dead or Easter, you should be able to book fares on any of the following a day or two before your departure.
Aerotucan: Phone Huatulco (958) 587 2427
Phone Oaxaca (951) 502 0840
First Class Bus: Phone toll free in Mexico 01 800 702 8000
Phone toll free outside Mexico 011 800 950 0278
www.uno.com.mx there is a morning bus but it does not show up on the booking site, I called and it does exist.
Second Class Bus: no Reservations, just show up.
Executive Vans Huatulco 2000: Phone Oaxaca (951) 516 3154
Phone Huatulco (958) 587 2910
Executive Vans Cacaluta Unidos: Phone Oaxaca (951) 516 8529
Phone Huatulco (958) 584 7339
Credits to: Brooke Gazer from Villa Agua Azul
7/23/2010
Fresh, Updated Restaurant Review of Azucena Zapoteca in San Martín Tilcajete
Go to the following link for a restaurant review of Azucena Zapoteca, located just off the highway at the entrance to the alebrije village of San Martín Tilcajete. The eatery features some traditional Oaxacan dishes, and some unique, delectable creations.
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/oaxaca-restaurant-in-san-martin-tilcajete-stands-test-of-time
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/oaxaca-restaurant-in-san-martin-tilcajete-stands-test-of-time
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
7/17/2010
Oaxaca Recipe for Chile en Nogada Steals Limelight from Puebla
Below is a link to a recipe for Chiles en Nogada developed here in Oaxaca, with brief commenary regarding the history of the dish dating to Puebla in the 1800s, and some apparent inconsistencies regarding ingredients and their availability, seasonality, and so on:
http://celebritychefs.suite101.com/article.cfm/oaxaca-recipe-for-chiles-en-nogada-steals-limelight-from-puebla
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
http://celebritychefs.suite101.com/article.cfm/oaxaca-recipe-for-chiles-en-nogada-steals-limelight-from-puebla
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
7/16/2010
Rugs in Teotitlán del Valle: New, Yet Vintage Tapetes May Be an Economical Option for Some
It recently occurred to me that there are some rug weavers in Teotitlán del Valle, with stock on hand from years gone by. This creates a potential "buying opportunity" for visitors to the town who are not necessarily looking for the most intricate of design or tightest of weave, or a rainbow of colors. The link explains all:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/buying-bargain-tapetes-in-teotitln-de-valle-oaxaca
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/buying-bargain-tapetes-in-teotitln-de-valle-oaxaca
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
7/07/2010
Tourism to Oaxaca Given a Boost with Election of Gabino Cué as Governor
While some may not be as optomistic, here's an opinion regarding the implications of the recent election of Gabino Cué as Oaxaca Governor:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/hope-arrives-as-oaxaca-elects-gabino-cue-governor-with-coalition
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/hope-arrives-as-oaxaca-elects-gabino-cue-governor-with-coalition
Alvin Starkman - Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
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