Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
Arroyo Guacamaya is one of the closest ecotourism sites to the City of Oaxaca, accessible by private vehicle in about an hour, or public transportation. La Guacamaya has most if not all of the features and attractions of the more distant ecotourism locales in the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca, including mountain biking, nature trails for hiking and climbing, streams and waterfalls, lodging, children’s facilities, and a restaurant featuring fresh fish from the local trout farm – all within a community-managed forest promoting sustainable logging operations.
Getting to Arroyo Guacamaya, Oaxaca Ecotourism Site in Ixtlan District
The village of La Guacamaya, while in the District of Ixtlan, is only a 45 minute car ride from Villa Etla, and thus just over an hour from the City of Oaxaca. Accordingly, while there are a number of reasonably priced overnight cabins at Arroyo Guacamaya, as a day trip from Oaxaca one can easily enjoy a great deal of what the region has to offer.
There are a number of options for getting to Arroyo Guacamaya ecotourism site:
· Hire a tour guide, driver or taxi, although this option is best for just a day trip since one might end up paying for the driver’s down time if an overnight is preferred.
· Rent a car from one of the several vehicle rental facilities located both at the airport and in downtown Oaxaca.
· Seek out a Oaxaca ecotourism company, although this option might entail unnecessary expense, though an attractive option for those without at least a little facility with the Spanish language.
· From downtown Oaxaca near the Abastos Market, take the bus known as the autobus comunitario de Teococuilco de Marcos Perez, located at Calle Heriberto Jara #118, Col. Libertad.
La Guacamaya is 31 kilometers from the City of Oaxaca, at approximately 9,000 feet above sea level. One leaves Oaxaca driving north towards Mexico City along Federal Highway 190, and continues along the “libre” or free highway, keeping to the right rather than going on the toll road (“cuota”).
About a minute’s drive beyond the Pemex gas station at the entrance to Villa Etla, there’s a clearly marked blue sign indicating “Arroyo Guacamaya Ecoturismo, 13 kilometers,” with an arrow indicating a right turn off the highway.
After leaving the main highway, and until arriving at Arroyo Guacamaya, one does not make any additional turns. It’s therefore an easy drive and extremely difficult to get lost. The road begins as a four-lane paved secondary highway, then narrows to two lanes, and finally, for the rest of the drive one is on a dirt road, often dusty depending on the time of year.
One quickly passes through the villages of San Miguel Etla and then San Gabriel Etla, each with a quaint old stone church located on the right side of the road. The terrain is rolling hills, with mixed semi-tropical vegetation.
The pavement ends shortly thereafter, and the balance of the drive is a gradual climb along a dirt road with numerous easy-to-navigate switchbacks. The roadway is not particularly conducive to motion sickness, so one need not be concerned in this regard.
Ascending, the vegetation changes from agave, cactus and mixed brush, to scrub oak and coniferous forest of predominantly pine. Note the brilliant yellow and occasional red bromeliads growing on the trees.
Arrival at Arroyo Guacamaya, Sierra Norte, Oaxaca
About 45 minutes alter having left the main highway and witnessed changes in vegetation, elevation with corresponding ear popping, and temperature, one finally arrives. A blue sign directing visitors to the cabins and restaurant is clearly visible with arrows pointing to the left down a smaller roadway. To the right the road continues on for a couple of kilometers to the hillside village of La Guacamaya.
Aside from ecotourism and sustainable logging operations, villagers dedicate themselves to predominantly agricultural enterprises. For about half of the year the main products harvested and taken to market (i.e. the nearby Wednesday Etla market) are fava beans and potatoes, and for the remainder of the year fresh flowers (in particular azucenas which have strong cultural significant to natives of the region), berros (similar to watercress), and ocote (wood used as kindling).
Facilities at Arroyo Guacamaya, Oaxaca Ecotourism Site
As of early 2010, the ecotourism site consists of:
· Five brick and adobe cabins each with lighting, a working fireplace, washroom with hot water, and beds. Electricity is provided by solar panels. Beds consist of bunk beds and double beds. Four of the cabins house up to four people, and one up to a family of six.
· A restaurant consisting of a large dining room with kitchen, able to accommodate up to about 50 diners.
· Children’s swings and Jungle-Jim style climbing apparatus.
· An adobe temazcal, scheduled for completion later in the year.
The dining hall, in addition to serving aluminum-wrapped grilled or fried fresh trout, serves standard Oaxacan fare such as meats and quesadillas. Sides include salad, spaghetti with vegetables and mushrooms, beans and tortillas. The fish broth is equally as fresh and delectable as the appetizers and main course offerings. Beverages include water, soft drinks, beer and mezcal.
Ecotourism Activities at Arroyo Guacamaya, Ixtlan, Oaxaca
Adan is a conscientious bilingual guide and resource person, up on ecotourism matters, and anxious to provide advice and interesting information. Consider spending at least one afternoon with him, partaking in the various activities.
The pursuits one can enjoy include:
· Climbing through forests up to the mountain peaks of Siempreviva and La Portillo, from which exquisite panoramic vistas of the valleys and numerous hamlets flecking the mountainsides can be appreciated.
· Mountain biking.
· Walking through the village.
· Learning more about local economic activities and obstacles to the continued sustainability of the community through ecotourism.
· Visiting the trout farm, its pools fed by fast-flowing waters from an alpine spring.
· Hiking to nearby streams and waterfalls, over soft, thick beds of dried pine needles.
· Taking note of and photographing interesting mountain plants such as sedum and echeveria.
As noted, the temazcal should be completed in the year 2010. Tourists to the village will have an opportunity to partake in the ancient healing custom of temazcal – sweat facilitated through the use of steam combined with medicinal herbs – cleansing the body and soul. Some have described the ritual as being akin to the Iroquois sweat lodge.
For children, while the foregoing activities are both safe and educational, Arroyo Guacamaya holds the additional attraction of wooden teeter totters and climbing apparatus, located steps from the restaurant, cabins and temazcal.
Arroyo Guacamaya Compared to Other Oaxacan Ecotourism Sites
La Guacamaya is a relatively new ecotourism site in the Ixtlan district of Oaxaca. It stands alongside Cuajimoloyas, La Neveria, Benito Juarez, Llano Grande, Ixtlan de Juarez, and other similar yet longer-established village ecotourism sites, and boasts similar attractions. While still developing and therefore perhaps deficient in some activities such as horseback riding, the relative lack of tourist numbers in and of itself constitutes part of its allure. And of course, there’s the proximity to the City of Oaxaca, a significant bonus for most.
Contact Information for Arroyo Guacamaya Ecotourism Site, Ixtlan, Oaxaca
Arrangements for visiting Arroyo Guacamaya in the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca can be made through one’s hotel or bed & breakfast, or by calling direct: (951) 521-8127.
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in anthropology and law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Now a resident of Oaxaca, Alvin writes, takes tours to the sights, is a consultant to documentary film companies, and owns Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com ), a unique Oaxaca bed and breakfast experience, providing Oaxaca accommodations which combine the comfort and service of Oaxaca hotels with the personal touch of quaint country inn style lodging.
12/14/2009
Consider Lodging in a Hotel or Bed & Breakfast in Oaxaca, Before Committing to an Apartment or Home Rental
The case for exercising caution prior to making a longterm committment to an apartment or home rental in Oaxaca:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/renting_an_apartment_or_house_in_oaxaca_mexico
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/renting_an_apartment_or_house_in_oaxaca_mexico
12/13/2009
Black Pottery, Used Clothing and City Markets in Oaxaca
For Alvin Starkman's most recent brief articles about barro negro, bringing your used clothing to Oaxaca, and Oaxaca's city marketplaces, please go to the following webpages:
1) The Development of Black Pottery in San Bartolo Coyotepec:
http://folk-art.suite101.com/article.cfm/the_black_pottery_of_san_bartolo_coyotepec
2) Bringing Used Clothing to Oaxaca:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/used_clothing_for_oaxaca
3) Markets in the City of Oaxaca:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/markets_in_the_city_of_oaxaca
1) The Development of Black Pottery in San Bartolo Coyotepec:
http://folk-art.suite101.com/article.cfm/the_black_pottery_of_san_bartolo_coyotepec
2) Bringing Used Clothing to Oaxaca:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/used_clothing_for_oaxaca
3) Markets in the City of Oaxaca:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/markets_in_the_city_of_oaxaca
12/10/2009
Hierve el Agua, Nieves and Helados, and Bicycing Oaxaca articles
For Alvin Starkman's brief Oaxaca articles about Hierve el Agua, Eating Nieves Sherbet and Ice Cream on the Steet, and Bycycling, go to the following webpages respectively:
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/hierve_el_agua_oaxaca
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/ice_cream_and_sherbet_eating_in_oaxaca
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/cycling_in_oaxaca_with_mundo_cieba_ac
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/hierve_el_agua_oaxaca
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/ice_cream_and_sherbet_eating_in_oaxaca
http://mexican-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/cycling_in_oaxaca_with_mundo_cieba_ac
11/23/2009
The Veria Network's Under The Sun series: Review of the Oaxaca episodes
Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
An international documentary film production company was drawn to the central valleys of the State of Oaxaca while investigating regions of the world where sustainable living still plays a major role in the way people live. After a preliminary visit to the state capital to scope out the feasibility of story lines, its production team ultimately shot two, five-segment episodes in the heart of Oaxaca.
The mandate of The Veria Network’s cable TV series Under the Sun is to capture a broad diversity of locales, organizations and individuals involved in healthy, harmonious, holistic, and environmentally friendly living and business enterprises. Each episode features British born Nathan LeRoy, a self-proclaimed adventurer, investigating how age-old means of production persist into the 21st century, and examining sustainable systems and products. This is done with a not-so-subtle underscore: maintaining and promoting unity with the natural world provides humankind the best opportunity to survive and thrive for generations to come.
Episode One
LeRoy accompanies internationally acclaimed native Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo (Bon Appetit, The New York Times, Toronto Iron Chef judge & competitor) to Oaxaca’s Pochote Organic Market. An interesting discussion ensues as to the certification process in respect to organic products. LeRoy propounds that forcing growers to leap through hoops in attempting to obtain certification is actually inconsistent with supporting small- scale local production. He then accompanies Chef Pilar to her Casa de los Sabores (House of Flavors) Cooking School for a lesson in preparing three dishes – an organic salad with a honey mustard garlic dressing; world famous mole negro, the most labor intensive of the many moles, traditionally made with approximately 35 ingredients; and a delightfully fresh and uniquely flavorful organic rose petal sorbet.
Our adventurer then meets up with a family of San Martín Tilcajete wood carvers and painters, headed by Jacobo Ángeles and María Mendoza. His goal is to learn about the town’s longstanding Zapotec woodcarving tradition. While trekking through the countryside he and Jacobo discuss the properties and uses of the copal tree from which most figures – known as alebrijes – are carved. Leroy then explores the use of natural pigments for coloring the pieces; María deftly uses her hands as palettes as she variously mixes tree sap and bark, honey, pomegranate, corn fungus, berries and other natural substances to create a veritable rainbow of paint colors.
Next he receives a lesson from a triumvirate of absolutely charming apron-clad abuelitas (little grandmothers) on how to make three refreshing drinks, each of which is typical to the region and commonly found in both urban and rural Oaxacan markets: agua de Jamaica (juice or water of hibiscus flower), agua de limón (a natural limeade made with the outer peel), and the uniquely indigenous pre-Hispanic drink, tejate. Making tejate is a true art, and highly ritualistic. If a step in the process goes awry, the end result simply won’t cut it. Being the Drink of the Gods in pre-Hispanic times, process must be perfect.
Leroy then gets out into the fields just after dawn one morning, with a woman whose family has been making the naturally fermented drink known as pulque, for generations. Pulque is perhaps the single least understood drink in Mexico, at times mistakenly noted as the first stage in the production of mezcal and tequila. The plant, one of several pulquero varieties of agave or maguey, must mature in the field for 15 – 18 years before it yields aguamiel or honey water. At sunrise and sunset the liquid is religiously harvested from a deep well in the center of the plant. Natural fermentation of the aguamiel occurs over the course of just a few hours. Be it myth or science-based, the indigenous guide counsels as to pulque’s curative and life-prolonging properties.
In the final segment of the episode LeRoy learns about cochineal ( cochinilla ), the minute insect which feeds off of the nopal cactus. Cochineal has been commercially cultivated, harvested and exported since early colonial times because of its unique property – it yields a strong, natural red dye which to this day is used in the production of such diverse products as Campari, Knorr and Campbell soups, lipsticks and make-ups, Danone yoghurt, hot dogs and cookies. Manuel, the engineer / manager of the museum and educational facility known as Tlapanochestli, explains the historical importance of the cochineal industry while going through the lifecycle of the insect and production technique currently employed. Experimentation into the use of other natural dyes and fibers continues at the research station.
Episode Two
LeRoy heads out to the rug weaving village of Teotitlán del Valle, where sheep have been sheered, and their wool spun, dyed and woven into rugs in basically the same manner, since the mid – 1500s. He watches a villager sheer a sheep using nothing but a simple scissors and rope to tie it down; then takes a fascinating tour with Mariano Sosa, the head of a sixteen family co-op, to witness all the subsequent steps such as washing the wool without detergents, then drying and spinning it into yarn, followed by using plants from an experimental site to create natural dyes – with the process’ uncontaminated water returning to the earth; and finally weaving the most intricate of both traditional Zapotec and more innovative designs into tapestries and rugs.
For the next segment our host remains in the rug village, awakening well before sunrise to accompany Rocio and Malena of the extended family known as Casa Santiago to a mill to have corn ground into masa – in preparation for a lesson back at their homestead. Together with Gloria, the matriarch of the family, they prepare amarillo, the mole used in making a very special and typical festive dish unique to their town, tamales de amarillo con pollo. Breakfast includes hot chocolate also made from scratch, enjoyed in the traditional fashion – with a small loaf of pan de yema or egg bread, for dipping. The quaintness and welcoming nature of each and every family member is both striking and memorable.
Leroy then travels back in time to 16th century Toledo, Spain. The ancient and well-chronicled Old World knife-making technique is still practiced in the town of Ocotlán, by Apolinar Águilar. The master craftsman fashions knives, machetes, swords and much more, using only recycled materials. He demonstrates the use of his wood and skin bellows, stone and mud hearth, and a series of hammers, chisels, and other forging tools he himself makes to his exacting specifications. His products range from letter openers, to hunting and butchers’ knives, to turkey carving and cutlery sets, to martial arts weapons, and custom collector pieces. Even the fine finishes of the blades and handles are creating naturally, without the use of chrome or nickel, varnish or lacquer.
Our adventurer next arrives in Santiago Matatlán, the self-anointed world capital of mezcal (also referred to as mescal), for a visit with Enrique Jiménez, a spirits producer with a pedigree dating to his ancestors’ 1870 arrival in the tiny village. Enrique walks LeRoy through all stages of production of mezcal from the harvesting of agave in the fields, to baking it in a pit over flaming logs and river rocks, then mashing it with the use of a horse dragging a multi-ton stone, to fermenting in pine vats, and finally distilling in a brick and mortar firewood-fueled oven. The sampling of the finished product includes a two-year-old añejo aged in oak barrels, a much younger mezcal, and of course one “with the worm.”
LeRoy concludes his visit to the State of Oaxaca with a much needed relaxing and rejuvenating temazcal and massage. He arrives at the home of Doña Emilia, a retired nurse of Zapotec heritage. After decades of tutelage from her grandmother she has become an expert in the ancient art and science of temazcal. One of the hallmarks of temazcal is the environment in which the ritual is enacted – an adobe hut with water and lava rocks used to create and control steam. It’s akin to a sweat lodge where chanting together with aromatic and curative herbs and branches cleanse the body and soul.
Watching the two episodes of Under the Sun gives the viewer a glimpse into some of the present-day manifestations of sustainable living in the central valleys of Oaxaca – and can just as easily be a precursor to the experiences of those contemplating a visit to the city. Virtually every individual and institution highlighted is accessible by tourists within the context of a couple of well-planned tours to the towns and villages surrounding the state capital.
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Anthropology and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin began traveling to Oaxaca in 1991, taking up permanent residence in 2004. He has written over 90 articles about life and culture in Oaxaca for several Mexico travel publications. Alvin consuls to documentary film production companies working in the region, and leads personalized tours for couples and families to the craft villages, market towns, ruins and more off-the-beaten-track locations rarely visited by tourists. He and his wife Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com), a bed and breakfast experience combining comfort of a downtown Oaxaca hotel, with the personal touch of country inn accommodations.
An international documentary film production company was drawn to the central valleys of the State of Oaxaca while investigating regions of the world where sustainable living still plays a major role in the way people live. After a preliminary visit to the state capital to scope out the feasibility of story lines, its production team ultimately shot two, five-segment episodes in the heart of Oaxaca.
The mandate of The Veria Network’s cable TV series Under the Sun is to capture a broad diversity of locales, organizations and individuals involved in healthy, harmonious, holistic, and environmentally friendly living and business enterprises. Each episode features British born Nathan LeRoy, a self-proclaimed adventurer, investigating how age-old means of production persist into the 21st century, and examining sustainable systems and products. This is done with a not-so-subtle underscore: maintaining and promoting unity with the natural world provides humankind the best opportunity to survive and thrive for generations to come.
Episode One
LeRoy accompanies internationally acclaimed native Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo (Bon Appetit, The New York Times, Toronto Iron Chef judge & competitor) to Oaxaca’s Pochote Organic Market. An interesting discussion ensues as to the certification process in respect to organic products. LeRoy propounds that forcing growers to leap through hoops in attempting to obtain certification is actually inconsistent with supporting small- scale local production. He then accompanies Chef Pilar to her Casa de los Sabores (House of Flavors) Cooking School for a lesson in preparing three dishes – an organic salad with a honey mustard garlic dressing; world famous mole negro, the most labor intensive of the many moles, traditionally made with approximately 35 ingredients; and a delightfully fresh and uniquely flavorful organic rose petal sorbet.
Our adventurer then meets up with a family of San Martín Tilcajete wood carvers and painters, headed by Jacobo Ángeles and María Mendoza. His goal is to learn about the town’s longstanding Zapotec woodcarving tradition. While trekking through the countryside he and Jacobo discuss the properties and uses of the copal tree from which most figures – known as alebrijes – are carved. Leroy then explores the use of natural pigments for coloring the pieces; María deftly uses her hands as palettes as she variously mixes tree sap and bark, honey, pomegranate, corn fungus, berries and other natural substances to create a veritable rainbow of paint colors.
Next he receives a lesson from a triumvirate of absolutely charming apron-clad abuelitas (little grandmothers) on how to make three refreshing drinks, each of which is typical to the region and commonly found in both urban and rural Oaxacan markets: agua de Jamaica (juice or water of hibiscus flower), agua de limón (a natural limeade made with the outer peel), and the uniquely indigenous pre-Hispanic drink, tejate. Making tejate is a true art, and highly ritualistic. If a step in the process goes awry, the end result simply won’t cut it. Being the Drink of the Gods in pre-Hispanic times, process must be perfect.
Leroy then gets out into the fields just after dawn one morning, with a woman whose family has been making the naturally fermented drink known as pulque, for generations. Pulque is perhaps the single least understood drink in Mexico, at times mistakenly noted as the first stage in the production of mezcal and tequila. The plant, one of several pulquero varieties of agave or maguey, must mature in the field for 15 – 18 years before it yields aguamiel or honey water. At sunrise and sunset the liquid is religiously harvested from a deep well in the center of the plant. Natural fermentation of the aguamiel occurs over the course of just a few hours. Be it myth or science-based, the indigenous guide counsels as to pulque’s curative and life-prolonging properties.
In the final segment of the episode LeRoy learns about cochineal ( cochinilla ), the minute insect which feeds off of the nopal cactus. Cochineal has been commercially cultivated, harvested and exported since early colonial times because of its unique property – it yields a strong, natural red dye which to this day is used in the production of such diverse products as Campari, Knorr and Campbell soups, lipsticks and make-ups, Danone yoghurt, hot dogs and cookies. Manuel, the engineer / manager of the museum and educational facility known as Tlapanochestli, explains the historical importance of the cochineal industry while going through the lifecycle of the insect and production technique currently employed. Experimentation into the use of other natural dyes and fibers continues at the research station.
Episode Two
LeRoy heads out to the rug weaving village of Teotitlán del Valle, where sheep have been sheered, and their wool spun, dyed and woven into rugs in basically the same manner, since the mid – 1500s. He watches a villager sheer a sheep using nothing but a simple scissors and rope to tie it down; then takes a fascinating tour with Mariano Sosa, the head of a sixteen family co-op, to witness all the subsequent steps such as washing the wool without detergents, then drying and spinning it into yarn, followed by using plants from an experimental site to create natural dyes – with the process’ uncontaminated water returning to the earth; and finally weaving the most intricate of both traditional Zapotec and more innovative designs into tapestries and rugs.
For the next segment our host remains in the rug village, awakening well before sunrise to accompany Rocio and Malena of the extended family known as Casa Santiago to a mill to have corn ground into masa – in preparation for a lesson back at their homestead. Together with Gloria, the matriarch of the family, they prepare amarillo, the mole used in making a very special and typical festive dish unique to their town, tamales de amarillo con pollo. Breakfast includes hot chocolate also made from scratch, enjoyed in the traditional fashion – with a small loaf of pan de yema or egg bread, for dipping. The quaintness and welcoming nature of each and every family member is both striking and memorable.
Leroy then travels back in time to 16th century Toledo, Spain. The ancient and well-chronicled Old World knife-making technique is still practiced in the town of Ocotlán, by Apolinar Águilar. The master craftsman fashions knives, machetes, swords and much more, using only recycled materials. He demonstrates the use of his wood and skin bellows, stone and mud hearth, and a series of hammers, chisels, and other forging tools he himself makes to his exacting specifications. His products range from letter openers, to hunting and butchers’ knives, to turkey carving and cutlery sets, to martial arts weapons, and custom collector pieces. Even the fine finishes of the blades and handles are creating naturally, without the use of chrome or nickel, varnish or lacquer.
Our adventurer next arrives in Santiago Matatlán, the self-anointed world capital of mezcal (also referred to as mescal), for a visit with Enrique Jiménez, a spirits producer with a pedigree dating to his ancestors’ 1870 arrival in the tiny village. Enrique walks LeRoy through all stages of production of mezcal from the harvesting of agave in the fields, to baking it in a pit over flaming logs and river rocks, then mashing it with the use of a horse dragging a multi-ton stone, to fermenting in pine vats, and finally distilling in a brick and mortar firewood-fueled oven. The sampling of the finished product includes a two-year-old añejo aged in oak barrels, a much younger mezcal, and of course one “with the worm.”
LeRoy concludes his visit to the State of Oaxaca with a much needed relaxing and rejuvenating temazcal and massage. He arrives at the home of Doña Emilia, a retired nurse of Zapotec heritage. After decades of tutelage from her grandmother she has become an expert in the ancient art and science of temazcal. One of the hallmarks of temazcal is the environment in which the ritual is enacted – an adobe hut with water and lava rocks used to create and control steam. It’s akin to a sweat lodge where chanting together with aromatic and curative herbs and branches cleanse the body and soul.
Watching the two episodes of Under the Sun gives the viewer a glimpse into some of the present-day manifestations of sustainable living in the central valleys of Oaxaca – and can just as easily be a precursor to the experiences of those contemplating a visit to the city. Virtually every individual and institution highlighted is accessible by tourists within the context of a couple of well-planned tours to the towns and villages surrounding the state capital.
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Anthropology and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin began traveling to Oaxaca in 1991, taking up permanent residence in 2004. He has written over 90 articles about life and culture in Oaxaca for several Mexico travel publications. Alvin consuls to documentary film production companies working in the region, and leads personalized tours for couples and families to the craft villages, market towns, ruins and more off-the-beaten-track locations rarely visited by tourists. He and his wife Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com), a bed and breakfast experience combining comfort of a downtown Oaxaca hotel, with the personal touch of country inn accommodations.
10/11/2009
Am I paying my staff too much? (Improving profits and peace of mind: a case study from Oaxaca)
Improving profits and peace of mind: a case study from Oaxaca, Mexico
Am I paying my staff too much?
Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
It’s now two months before Day of The Dead in Oaxaca, and Juanita’s hotel still has rooms available for one of the busiest times of the year. The City of Oaxaca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Southern Mexico, relies on tourism for its very existence. Juanita is trying to figure out where she went wrong, realizing that Día de Los Muertos should top up her bank balance, just like the Christmas season, the summertime festival weeks known as Guelaguetza, and Easter.
Time and again Juanita asks herself, “Am I paying my staff too much?” Merely asking the question reveals why her bottom line is so low.
Oaxacan business owners with non-unionized staff who either think they’re overpaying, or provide a level of remuneration only because they believe they can’t get away with paying any less, will never maximize their profit potential. Attitude towards employees, and failing to recognize the importance and potential value of each and every staff position, affects how business fares.
Here in Oaxaca it’s a well-known fact that non-Mexicans (extranjeros) pay their help more (i.e. “too much”) money relative to Oaxacan employers. Until recently I had assumed that the reason was simply that Americans and Europeans resident in Oaxaca come from wealthy societies in which entrepreneurs can afford to pay large salaries, and although now living and working here in Oaxaca they still think and operate in American Dollars --- not understanding or accepting Oaxacan economics. But now, armed with data concerning the salaries customarily paid to employees in diverse positions of trust, authority and responsibility, and having conducted a rudimentary analysis of comparative levels of success between foreign and domestically owned businesses, it’s clear that the differences are rather simple, and relate to three fundamentals: 1) business acumen; 2) attitudes towards leisure time and piece of mind, and; 3) willingness to acknowledge that “you get what you pay for.” Each is integrally related to the other.
Juanita (names have been changed) pays her receptionists 115 pesos (roughly $9 USD) per day, and her chambermaids 100. Mary, an American who owns a bed and breakfast, never pays staff less than 150 pesos per day. The American travels outside of the country to promote and conduct business, and to vacation, on a regular basis. The Oaxacan rarely leaves the city or takes a vacation of longer than three days, and does so only when there are virtually no guests in the hotel. The Amercan says that she knows she pays her staff too much relative to Oaxacan salaries, but when she stops to think about what “overpaying” enables her to do, and how her business fares, acknowledges that perhaps she is not being unreasonably generous with her staff.
Why is Mary’s B & B one of the top-ranked tourist accommodations on a major international travel website, while Juanita’s is in the doldrums? Juanita says she’s paying her staff double minimum wage, and could pay even less if she really wanted to. Mary has had the same staff for several years, and even acknowledges their birthdays. Juanita has high employee turnover.
Juanita’s financial outlay is significant. She spends an inordinate amount of effort making her hotel look pretty, and money promoting it. Her hotel is in a high rent district in the downtown sector of the city. It should be packed day in and day out given its location and the expenditure to maintain it. Yet two months prior to Day of The Dead, she is one of only two lodgings in her association with rooms still available for the high season. Funds are earmarked for the wrong places; prioritization is skewed.
Juanita’s retort strikes a familiar chord, and at first instance might seem rational: “It wouldn’t matter if I paid my receptionist 30, 40, or even 50% more,” she laments. “She wouldn’t work any harder or be more dedicated, because more money doesn’t motivate them; that’s just the way they are. And besides, I can’t afford any more, with all my other expenses, and business generally down.”
Juanita’s response can be summarized as twofold: paying more won’t yield results, and; she can’t afford it anyway. Dealing with the first, Juanita has to step out of the box, out of the colonial way of thinking. She sees “the culture of poverty,” insofar as it relates to native workers from small towns and villages, not allowing employees to break from a fatalistic pre-determined mold, because that’s just the way they are. More money won’t make a difference to their lot in life and therefore won’t motivate.
It does not behoove me to tell Juanita she’s wrong, and it is beyond the scope of this essay to even try to illustrate that she is, which may or may not be the case. But there’s another solution to Juanita’s dilemma which does not threaten or test her ingrained beliefs. She can seek out prospective employees whose expectations are higher to begin with; those who have perhaps had a taste of higher earnings and what they can provide, or have achieved advanced education, if only a high school diploma which has lead them to a career path (una carrera). Juanita then begins with the knowledge or at least an expectation that the change in hiring will bear fruit. But that might entail going as far as paying her receptionists 200 pesos a day.
Can Juanita afford to pay her daytime and evening receptionists, Alma and Rosita, almost double? And why would she? After all, reception is a non-management position. This leads us to the second prong of the equation, that is, affordability and making a difference. We must look at the question in terms of higher profit potential, and peace of mind and its natural consequences. What then would be the implications for Juanita’s after-tax income, and more generally the quality of her life?
Juanita has eight rooms in her hotel. She would be increasing the pay of only two of three receptionists, on the basis that the all-night position might not yield results with a higher level of pay. It would therefore cost an additional 170 pesos per day to raise each of the two shifts to 200 pesos, plus other sundry expenses, so call it 200 pesos more per day. Juanita could make it up by raising room costs by 25 pesos, or roughly 4%. Or she could absorb the extra cost and see if it makes a difference. Let’s assume, although I’m not certain we should, that vacationing couples would resist paying 625 instead of 600 pesos per night, or 12.5 pesos more per person.
How would Alma react to having a 200 peso per day job, rather than working for 115? Her sense of self-worth would receive a shot in the arm; her name would be on her uniform; she would be more likely to stay at work after her shift has ended, without resentment, if for example Rosita arrived late on occasion; she would less likely be constantly looking for a job paying 10 pesos more a day; and she would feel that her education has paid off. Juanita might even give her the responsibility of making bank deposits if she proved completely trustworthy and loyal. Without a doubt she would be more likely to provide hotel patrons with “value-added service” … and with a smile, literally.
Alma and Rosita would remember patrons returning the next year, and the guests would surely recall them, because of their friendly faces and the service they provided. There’s nothing like returning to a hotel and seeing familiar faces. It breeds comfort … more so than a soft duvet. Both Mexican nationals and foreigners tend to be family oriented. They would perceive the hotel and its staff as a family, again leading to familiarity and comfort. They will be more likely than not return to the same establishment next year, and recommend it to friends.
Over time the nature of and expenditure for advertising can be adjusted, from paying out higher costs every year for the same and new promotional techniques, to the more economical promotion of emailing those on the client list from time to time to keep the hotel’s name in their minds. The hotel will be able to use the written testimonials of its guests, which will undoubtedly be received, instead of pay its marketing specialist to come up with catchy slogans of questionable value (at least that’s the Oaxacan norm).
Staff staying with Juanita for longer stretches of time means Juanita spends less time interviewing and hiring and firing, and less money advertising for positions. Juanita can spend more time with her family, or find more productive ways to keep business growing, instead of constantly being on the defensive by having to staff, yet again. She will no longer have to constantly be looking over the shoulders of Alma and Rosita, since she’ll know that they’re doing their jobs, because they’re happy to be doing them; Alma and Rosita will have begun to appreciate the monetary and non-monetary rewards resulting from meeting and exceeding expectations of management. It takes time and energy to always be watching over the work that staff is doing to ensure that it’s being done competently. If paying higher wages relieves Juanita of that responsibility, she will then have more opportunities to perform other tasks more directly relating to marketing and making money.
Once the level of trust has been established, Juanita can take the odd day off, knowing that Rosita will be able to resolve small problems on her own such as calling the plumber, the electrician, the water delivery man and the municipality. She’ll have the confidence and the sense to call Juanita when she cannot resolve problems, not feeling as though she’s been a failure for not dealing with issues on her own. Juanita won’t be constantly calling the hotel to make sure everything is running well.
Rosita will sense her value to Juanita, and anticipate regular raises, which will keep her content. And Juanita will hopefully have the sense to not wait until Rosita takes the bold step of asking.
Juanita will be able to take off not only the odd day, but actual vacations.
Reception is the most important staff position a hotel can have. It provides the first impression that a prospective patron will receive about Juanita’s hotel, whether the inquiry is by phone, or in person. Unless Juanita wants to be the one answering the phone and selling her hotel to off-the-street tourists, she’d better begin paying Alma and Rosita the value of their positions … or they’ll be gone, and Juanita will in fact be working 24/7.
Once her staff is patterned to provide value-added service, Juanita can raise her prices. No one will begrudge that extra 25, or better yet 125 pesos per night. After all, Alma and Rosita will be doing the selling for her.
Next adjustment? Think of the level of responsibility entrusted to chambermaids, and how much they are being paid. They ensure patrons’ valuables do not disappear, and the cleanliness of surroundings and level of comfort for a full one-third of the time travelers are on vacation!
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Social Anthropology from Toronto’s York University, and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin ceased practicing law in 2004, when he and his wife Arlene began living permanently in Oaxaca. Since that time, Alvin has written over 90 articles about life and cultural traditions in and around Oaxaca and its central valleys, for newspapers, magazines, and websites promoting tourism in Mexico and abroad. Alvin and Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com).
Am I paying my staff too much?
Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
It’s now two months before Day of The Dead in Oaxaca, and Juanita’s hotel still has rooms available for one of the busiest times of the year. The City of Oaxaca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Southern Mexico, relies on tourism for its very existence. Juanita is trying to figure out where she went wrong, realizing that Día de Los Muertos should top up her bank balance, just like the Christmas season, the summertime festival weeks known as Guelaguetza, and Easter.
Time and again Juanita asks herself, “Am I paying my staff too much?” Merely asking the question reveals why her bottom line is so low.
Oaxacan business owners with non-unionized staff who either think they’re overpaying, or provide a level of remuneration only because they believe they can’t get away with paying any less, will never maximize their profit potential. Attitude towards employees, and failing to recognize the importance and potential value of each and every staff position, affects how business fares.
Here in Oaxaca it’s a well-known fact that non-Mexicans (extranjeros) pay their help more (i.e. “too much”) money relative to Oaxacan employers. Until recently I had assumed that the reason was simply that Americans and Europeans resident in Oaxaca come from wealthy societies in which entrepreneurs can afford to pay large salaries, and although now living and working here in Oaxaca they still think and operate in American Dollars --- not understanding or accepting Oaxacan economics. But now, armed with data concerning the salaries customarily paid to employees in diverse positions of trust, authority and responsibility, and having conducted a rudimentary analysis of comparative levels of success between foreign and domestically owned businesses, it’s clear that the differences are rather simple, and relate to three fundamentals: 1) business acumen; 2) attitudes towards leisure time and piece of mind, and; 3) willingness to acknowledge that “you get what you pay for.” Each is integrally related to the other.
Juanita (names have been changed) pays her receptionists 115 pesos (roughly $9 USD) per day, and her chambermaids 100. Mary, an American who owns a bed and breakfast, never pays staff less than 150 pesos per day. The American travels outside of the country to promote and conduct business, and to vacation, on a regular basis. The Oaxacan rarely leaves the city or takes a vacation of longer than three days, and does so only when there are virtually no guests in the hotel. The Amercan says that she knows she pays her staff too much relative to Oaxacan salaries, but when she stops to think about what “overpaying” enables her to do, and how her business fares, acknowledges that perhaps she is not being unreasonably generous with her staff.
Why is Mary’s B & B one of the top-ranked tourist accommodations on a major international travel website, while Juanita’s is in the doldrums? Juanita says she’s paying her staff double minimum wage, and could pay even less if she really wanted to. Mary has had the same staff for several years, and even acknowledges their birthdays. Juanita has high employee turnover.
Juanita’s financial outlay is significant. She spends an inordinate amount of effort making her hotel look pretty, and money promoting it. Her hotel is in a high rent district in the downtown sector of the city. It should be packed day in and day out given its location and the expenditure to maintain it. Yet two months prior to Day of The Dead, she is one of only two lodgings in her association with rooms still available for the high season. Funds are earmarked for the wrong places; prioritization is skewed.
Juanita’s retort strikes a familiar chord, and at first instance might seem rational: “It wouldn’t matter if I paid my receptionist 30, 40, or even 50% more,” she laments. “She wouldn’t work any harder or be more dedicated, because more money doesn’t motivate them; that’s just the way they are. And besides, I can’t afford any more, with all my other expenses, and business generally down.”
Juanita’s response can be summarized as twofold: paying more won’t yield results, and; she can’t afford it anyway. Dealing with the first, Juanita has to step out of the box, out of the colonial way of thinking. She sees “the culture of poverty,” insofar as it relates to native workers from small towns and villages, not allowing employees to break from a fatalistic pre-determined mold, because that’s just the way they are. More money won’t make a difference to their lot in life and therefore won’t motivate.
It does not behoove me to tell Juanita she’s wrong, and it is beyond the scope of this essay to even try to illustrate that she is, which may or may not be the case. But there’s another solution to Juanita’s dilemma which does not threaten or test her ingrained beliefs. She can seek out prospective employees whose expectations are higher to begin with; those who have perhaps had a taste of higher earnings and what they can provide, or have achieved advanced education, if only a high school diploma which has lead them to a career path (una carrera). Juanita then begins with the knowledge or at least an expectation that the change in hiring will bear fruit. But that might entail going as far as paying her receptionists 200 pesos a day.
Can Juanita afford to pay her daytime and evening receptionists, Alma and Rosita, almost double? And why would she? After all, reception is a non-management position. This leads us to the second prong of the equation, that is, affordability and making a difference. We must look at the question in terms of higher profit potential, and peace of mind and its natural consequences. What then would be the implications for Juanita’s after-tax income, and more generally the quality of her life?
Juanita has eight rooms in her hotel. She would be increasing the pay of only two of three receptionists, on the basis that the all-night position might not yield results with a higher level of pay. It would therefore cost an additional 170 pesos per day to raise each of the two shifts to 200 pesos, plus other sundry expenses, so call it 200 pesos more per day. Juanita could make it up by raising room costs by 25 pesos, or roughly 4%. Or she could absorb the extra cost and see if it makes a difference. Let’s assume, although I’m not certain we should, that vacationing couples would resist paying 625 instead of 600 pesos per night, or 12.5 pesos more per person.
How would Alma react to having a 200 peso per day job, rather than working for 115? Her sense of self-worth would receive a shot in the arm; her name would be on her uniform; she would be more likely to stay at work after her shift has ended, without resentment, if for example Rosita arrived late on occasion; she would less likely be constantly looking for a job paying 10 pesos more a day; and she would feel that her education has paid off. Juanita might even give her the responsibility of making bank deposits if she proved completely trustworthy and loyal. Without a doubt she would be more likely to provide hotel patrons with “value-added service” … and with a smile, literally.
Alma and Rosita would remember patrons returning the next year, and the guests would surely recall them, because of their friendly faces and the service they provided. There’s nothing like returning to a hotel and seeing familiar faces. It breeds comfort … more so than a soft duvet. Both Mexican nationals and foreigners tend to be family oriented. They would perceive the hotel and its staff as a family, again leading to familiarity and comfort. They will be more likely than not return to the same establishment next year, and recommend it to friends.
Over time the nature of and expenditure for advertising can be adjusted, from paying out higher costs every year for the same and new promotional techniques, to the more economical promotion of emailing those on the client list from time to time to keep the hotel’s name in their minds. The hotel will be able to use the written testimonials of its guests, which will undoubtedly be received, instead of pay its marketing specialist to come up with catchy slogans of questionable value (at least that’s the Oaxacan norm).
Staff staying with Juanita for longer stretches of time means Juanita spends less time interviewing and hiring and firing, and less money advertising for positions. Juanita can spend more time with her family, or find more productive ways to keep business growing, instead of constantly being on the defensive by having to staff, yet again. She will no longer have to constantly be looking over the shoulders of Alma and Rosita, since she’ll know that they’re doing their jobs, because they’re happy to be doing them; Alma and Rosita will have begun to appreciate the monetary and non-monetary rewards resulting from meeting and exceeding expectations of management. It takes time and energy to always be watching over the work that staff is doing to ensure that it’s being done competently. If paying higher wages relieves Juanita of that responsibility, she will then have more opportunities to perform other tasks more directly relating to marketing and making money.
Once the level of trust has been established, Juanita can take the odd day off, knowing that Rosita will be able to resolve small problems on her own such as calling the plumber, the electrician, the water delivery man and the municipality. She’ll have the confidence and the sense to call Juanita when she cannot resolve problems, not feeling as though she’s been a failure for not dealing with issues on her own. Juanita won’t be constantly calling the hotel to make sure everything is running well.
Rosita will sense her value to Juanita, and anticipate regular raises, which will keep her content. And Juanita will hopefully have the sense to not wait until Rosita takes the bold step of asking.
Juanita will be able to take off not only the odd day, but actual vacations.
Reception is the most important staff position a hotel can have. It provides the first impression that a prospective patron will receive about Juanita’s hotel, whether the inquiry is by phone, or in person. Unless Juanita wants to be the one answering the phone and selling her hotel to off-the-street tourists, she’d better begin paying Alma and Rosita the value of their positions … or they’ll be gone, and Juanita will in fact be working 24/7.
Once her staff is patterned to provide value-added service, Juanita can raise her prices. No one will begrudge that extra 25, or better yet 125 pesos per night. After all, Alma and Rosita will be doing the selling for her.
Next adjustment? Think of the level of responsibility entrusted to chambermaids, and how much they are being paid. They ensure patrons’ valuables do not disappear, and the cleanliness of surroundings and level of comfort for a full one-third of the time travelers are on vacation!
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Social Anthropology from Toronto’s York University, and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin ceased practicing law in 2004, when he and his wife Arlene began living permanently in Oaxaca. Since that time, Alvin has written over 90 articles about life and cultural traditions in and around Oaxaca and its central valleys, for newspapers, magazines, and websites promoting tourism in Mexico and abroad. Alvin and Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com).
10/05/2009
Oaxacan chef inadvertently sets Toronto ablaze, steals limelight from Clinton, Clooney
Steals limelight from Clinton, Clooney …
Oaxacan chef inadvertently sets City of Toronto ablaze
Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
All Pilar Cabrera really wanted was to do a little promotion for Oaxaca, and make a few Canadian dollars during one of the slowest months of the year for tourism. But by the end of Chef Pilar’s four-week September visit to Toronto, she had set both local and national media on fire – so much so that coverage of her trip resulted in every restaurant in which she was scheduled to cook being sold out; she had to turn down last minute requests to work her culinary magic at additional private dinner parties and cooking schools.
The stellar reviews throughout the trip kept chatter alive; Sheryl Kirby of Women’s Culinary Network described her cena at Frida, a highly praised Mexican restaurant, as “one of the best meals of my life,” then continued to note “the sheer brilliance of Cabrera’s 30-ingredient authentic Oaxacan mole.”
Like many Oaxacan women, Pilar learned to cook from her mother and grandmother. But when the time came to think in earnest of her future, her path diverged from that of others. While living in Mexico City she earned a degree in food sciences and nutrition, and thereafter worked in research and development for food giant Herdez, McCormick. She then returned to Oaxaca to open Restaurante La Olla, and Casa de los Sabores Cooking School.
Pilar has been featured in publications such as Bon Appetit and The New York Times, and lauded by the likes of acclaimed restauranteur Rick Bayless who regularly brings his staff to Oaxaca where they take her classes. Over the years she had been offered and then rejected opportunities to teach and cook outside of Mexico. It was not until Spring, 2009, at the encouragement of this writer, and with the invaluable media and culinary industry contacts of Toronto food researcher and writer Mary Luz Mejia of Sizzling Communications, that the Toronto tour became a reality.
A planned two week tour rapidly turned into three, as eateries and a prominent cooking school expressed immediate interest. The trip was extended to four weeks when the Mexican Consulate to Canada learned of Pilar’s trip and asked her to represent Mexico at the Toronto Harbourfront Centre International Hot & Spicy Food Festival – Pilar was a judge at the Emerging Chefs competition, and was pitted against Louisiana in the Iron Chef main event.
Throughout September, the diversity of plates Pilar prepared was matched only by the broad range of restaurants and teaching venues in which she plied her trade – as honored guest chef, and as instructor. At the high end was Frank, the 120-seat dining room of the Art Gallery of Ontario, with a menu which included tiger shrimp al mezcal skewered with mango, fresh Ontario sweet corn bisque garnished with pomegranate, and chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and poblano chile atop a bed of tomatillo salsa. Pilar’s opportunity to showcase Oaxacan botanas came near the end of the trip at Torito Tapas Bar where a packed house munched on tostaditas with habanera-marinated red snapper and with octopus a la hierba santa, red mole tacos, mushroom and epazote quesadillas, bacon and cheese memelitas, with pastel de tres leches at the finish.
Pilar spent two days at Nella Cucina Culinary School. Managing Director Joanne Lusted lauded Pilar and Ms. Mejia for somehow managing to sell out sessions totaling 80 students, where prominent Canadian chefs had failed to attract such numbers. And at The Chef’s House, the restaurant and hands-on teaching facility of George Brown College School of Culinary Arts, Pilar taught both chefs and students, ultimately providing totally enthralled foodies with the likes of potato and chorizo molotitos, sopa Tehuana, pescado Istmeño, flan de vainilla with seasonal berry coulis, and café de olla.
Media activity began prior to Pilar’s arrival, with The Toronto Sun, in an upcoming events column noting Pilar’s tour ahead of President Bill Clinton’s much-touted talk to Torontonians. The day after her arrival she was live on National TV, showcasing five dishes she had prepared that morning, as well as Herencia del Mezcalero mezcal. September 11th she was in the test kitchen of The Toronto Star preparing moles – verde and amarillo.
“I was nervous about being able to source the ingredients I would need, in Toronto, especially for dishes like verde,” Pilar admits. “I knew the newspaper would not publish a recipe unless all ingredients could be purchased locally. I was amazed at how many of our herbs, chiles and other foodstuffs are found in Kensington Market.” And so was The Star; on the 16th it ran almost a full page about Pilar in its Entertainment & Living section. While the photograph of George Clooney promoting the Toronto International Film Festival was a bit larger than that of Pilar, Jennifer Bain, The Star’s food editor, was allotted much more space to write about our own Oaxacan star.
Other media coverage included several food blog entries, articles in magazines such as City Bites, and a wonderful little piece about Pilar’s take on huitlacoche, aired nationwide on Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s Here and Now.
All told, Pilar judged, competed, cooked and instructed 11 full days and evenings, in addition to at least an equal number preparing – sourcing ingredients and meeting with administrators and chefs.
The epic journey did allow a few days for visits to several museums; Niagara Falls, Niagara-on-the-Lake and tastings at wineries; a cottage on Lake Simcoe for relaxation; and even Casino Rama (“not for me, but it was interesting to see Las Vegas – style gambling”). And there was an opportunity to sample ethnic eateries including Thai, Sechwan, Ethiopian, Indian, Jewish and Greek; as well as indulge at restaurants ranging from the finest of French (Auberge du Pommier) to neighborhood jazz and wings bistros.
“The warmth with which I was welcomed into the kitchens of other chefs to ask and learn, and the appreciation shown for the little I was able to impart to Torontonians about Oaxaca, was truly remarkable. There is so much the people of Toronto and Oaxaca can learn from each other, relating to gastronomy and other aspects of culture and tourism.”
Indeed. The tour has ignited interest in future tours by Pilar as well as other Oaxacans. With the continued support of the Consulado General de México, and the willingness of the Mexico and Toronto Tourism boards to jump on the bandwagon, perhaps the State of Oaxaca will see the benefit in providing more support and encouragement for its own to travel abroad, for the benefit of all Oaxacans.
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Social Anthropology from Toronto’s York University, and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin ceased practicing law in 2004, when he and his wife Arlene began living permanently in Oaxaca. Since that time, Alvin has written over 90 articles about life and cultural traditions in and around Oaxaca and its central valleys, for newspapers, magazines, and websites promoting tourism in Mexico and abroad. Alvin and Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com).
Oaxacan chef inadvertently sets City of Toronto ablaze
Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
All Pilar Cabrera really wanted was to do a little promotion for Oaxaca, and make a few Canadian dollars during one of the slowest months of the year for tourism. But by the end of Chef Pilar’s four-week September visit to Toronto, she had set both local and national media on fire – so much so that coverage of her trip resulted in every restaurant in which she was scheduled to cook being sold out; she had to turn down last minute requests to work her culinary magic at additional private dinner parties and cooking schools.
The stellar reviews throughout the trip kept chatter alive; Sheryl Kirby of Women’s Culinary Network described her cena at Frida, a highly praised Mexican restaurant, as “one of the best meals of my life,” then continued to note “the sheer brilliance of Cabrera’s 30-ingredient authentic Oaxacan mole.”
Like many Oaxacan women, Pilar learned to cook from her mother and grandmother. But when the time came to think in earnest of her future, her path diverged from that of others. While living in Mexico City she earned a degree in food sciences and nutrition, and thereafter worked in research and development for food giant Herdez, McCormick. She then returned to Oaxaca to open Restaurante La Olla, and Casa de los Sabores Cooking School.
Pilar has been featured in publications such as Bon Appetit and The New York Times, and lauded by the likes of acclaimed restauranteur Rick Bayless who regularly brings his staff to Oaxaca where they take her classes. Over the years she had been offered and then rejected opportunities to teach and cook outside of Mexico. It was not until Spring, 2009, at the encouragement of this writer, and with the invaluable media and culinary industry contacts of Toronto food researcher and writer Mary Luz Mejia of Sizzling Communications, that the Toronto tour became a reality.
A planned two week tour rapidly turned into three, as eateries and a prominent cooking school expressed immediate interest. The trip was extended to four weeks when the Mexican Consulate to Canada learned of Pilar’s trip and asked her to represent Mexico at the Toronto Harbourfront Centre International Hot & Spicy Food Festival – Pilar was a judge at the Emerging Chefs competition, and was pitted against Louisiana in the Iron Chef main event.
Throughout September, the diversity of plates Pilar prepared was matched only by the broad range of restaurants and teaching venues in which she plied her trade – as honored guest chef, and as instructor. At the high end was Frank, the 120-seat dining room of the Art Gallery of Ontario, with a menu which included tiger shrimp al mezcal skewered with mango, fresh Ontario sweet corn bisque garnished with pomegranate, and chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and poblano chile atop a bed of tomatillo salsa. Pilar’s opportunity to showcase Oaxacan botanas came near the end of the trip at Torito Tapas Bar where a packed house munched on tostaditas with habanera-marinated red snapper and with octopus a la hierba santa, red mole tacos, mushroom and epazote quesadillas, bacon and cheese memelitas, with pastel de tres leches at the finish.
Pilar spent two days at Nella Cucina Culinary School. Managing Director Joanne Lusted lauded Pilar and Ms. Mejia for somehow managing to sell out sessions totaling 80 students, where prominent Canadian chefs had failed to attract such numbers. And at The Chef’s House, the restaurant and hands-on teaching facility of George Brown College School of Culinary Arts, Pilar taught both chefs and students, ultimately providing totally enthralled foodies with the likes of potato and chorizo molotitos, sopa Tehuana, pescado Istmeño, flan de vainilla with seasonal berry coulis, and café de olla.
Media activity began prior to Pilar’s arrival, with The Toronto Sun, in an upcoming events column noting Pilar’s tour ahead of President Bill Clinton’s much-touted talk to Torontonians. The day after her arrival she was live on National TV, showcasing five dishes she had prepared that morning, as well as Herencia del Mezcalero mezcal. September 11th she was in the test kitchen of The Toronto Star preparing moles – verde and amarillo.
“I was nervous about being able to source the ingredients I would need, in Toronto, especially for dishes like verde,” Pilar admits. “I knew the newspaper would not publish a recipe unless all ingredients could be purchased locally. I was amazed at how many of our herbs, chiles and other foodstuffs are found in Kensington Market.” And so was The Star; on the 16th it ran almost a full page about Pilar in its Entertainment & Living section. While the photograph of George Clooney promoting the Toronto International Film Festival was a bit larger than that of Pilar, Jennifer Bain, The Star’s food editor, was allotted much more space to write about our own Oaxacan star.
Other media coverage included several food blog entries, articles in magazines such as City Bites, and a wonderful little piece about Pilar’s take on huitlacoche, aired nationwide on Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s Here and Now.
All told, Pilar judged, competed, cooked and instructed 11 full days and evenings, in addition to at least an equal number preparing – sourcing ingredients and meeting with administrators and chefs.
The epic journey did allow a few days for visits to several museums; Niagara Falls, Niagara-on-the-Lake and tastings at wineries; a cottage on Lake Simcoe for relaxation; and even Casino Rama (“not for me, but it was interesting to see Las Vegas – style gambling”). And there was an opportunity to sample ethnic eateries including Thai, Sechwan, Ethiopian, Indian, Jewish and Greek; as well as indulge at restaurants ranging from the finest of French (Auberge du Pommier) to neighborhood jazz and wings bistros.
“The warmth with which I was welcomed into the kitchens of other chefs to ask and learn, and the appreciation shown for the little I was able to impart to Torontonians about Oaxaca, was truly remarkable. There is so much the people of Toronto and Oaxaca can learn from each other, relating to gastronomy and other aspects of culture and tourism.”
Indeed. The tour has ignited interest in future tours by Pilar as well as other Oaxacans. With the continued support of the Consulado General de México, and the willingness of the Mexico and Toronto Tourism boards to jump on the bandwagon, perhaps the State of Oaxaca will see the benefit in providing more support and encouragement for its own to travel abroad, for the benefit of all Oaxacans.
Alvin Starkman has a Masters in Social Anthropology from Toronto’s York University, and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. Alvin ceased practicing law in 2004, when he and his wife Arlene began living permanently in Oaxaca. Since that time, Alvin has written over 90 articles about life and cultural traditions in and around Oaxaca and its central valleys, for newspapers, magazines, and websites promoting tourism in Mexico and abroad. Alvin and Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com).
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