Day of the Dead

Drawn by the intrigue of all-night vigils in cemeteries and life-size skeletons propped jauntily in shop windows, tourists flock to Oaxaca and other points in Mexico for Day of the Dead.

During the last week in October, voyeurs come to observe and to photograph the “picturesque” practices of “quaint” indigenous Mexicans. The idea of reunions at family gravesites, complete with music, food and gaiety strike foreigners as strange, to say the least. They stare in wonder at shops filled with candy skulls and calaveras (skeletons) made of wood, paper mache, clay, wax and sugar. Dressed as doctors, judges, teachers, tennis players and prostitutes, the calaveras engage in all kinds of activities from dancing and drinking to hair styling and singing. Every conceivable profession and pastime is burlesqued. Their human-like antics draw smiles from passersby. And indeed, Mexicans view skeletons as funny and friendly rather than spooky and scary.

The concept of the Danse Macabre brought from Europe was adopted by the Mexicans and fused with the prehispanic customs and attitudes, resulting in a uniquely Mexican custom especially prevalent in Oaxaca today. According to an anonymous manuscript dated 1553, the Spanish observed: “They used to celebrate the feast of the dead, because they offered in their honor to the devil many turkeys, corn, blankets, clothing, food and other things. In particular, every household celebrated a great feast. They incensed the images they had of their dead parents, kinsmen and priests.”

Today, far from an occasion for curious onlookers, traditions associated with the Day of the Dead reflect the Mexican belief in the duality of life and death. While they mourn and miss their dead loved ones, they also believe that death is just an extension of life. It’s part of a natural progression, not an end. The dead continue to exist and return annually to visit their loved ones. Many of the customs, such as home altars and cemetery vigils, are to help them find their way and to welcome them home.

Just as there are differences in beliefs among the many ethnic groups which make up Oaxaca, so too are there differences in the details of the altars and the celebrations from one family to another. Typically, each family builds and decorates an altar in its home. An altar usually begins with a table on which are placed boxes to represent the tombs and all is covered with a white tablecloth or sheet. Long stalks of sugarcane or carrizo are tied to the front legs of the table and formed into a triumphal arc above the altar. Flowers, candles, images of the saints, and photos or other rembrances of the beloved dead abound, along with favorite foods, drink and other items.

For instance, if the deceased smoked or drank, then cigarettes and mezcal are placed on the altar, together with any other special foods or tributes which were a favorite in life. The markets sell miniature skeletons made of clay or paper mache for this purpose. So, if uncle Pepe liked to fish, the family places a skeleton of a man fishing on the altar. These items tell the returning dead that they have indeed found the right place and are welcome. If the altar is for an "angelito" or dead child, it will also include favorite toys and many white flowers.

Because they will be hungry after their long journey home, special offerings of food may include mole, nicuatole, pumpkin cooked with brown sugar, cane sugar and tejocotes. Beautifully decorated pan de muerto, chocolate, pecans and peanuts. Cooked chayote and fresh fruits - oranges, lemons, bananas, jícama, tejocotes, nísperos and pineapple. Then comes the lamp with oil of higuerilla, the wax candles, white or yellow adorned with black crepe paper. Markets feature the special foods, decorations, and calaveras during the month of October.

In a way, Day of the Dead is a misnomer. The principal celebrations actually take place beginning October 31 and end on November 2. In addition, special categories of deceased are honored on preceding days. On October 28 , those who died in accidents, suicides, homicides and other violent deaths are honored. October 29 is for the unbaptized and October 30 for the lonely soul .

At 3 p.m. on October 31, the angelitos (children who died after being baptized) arrive to visit their families and depart at the same hour on November 1, to permit the adults to visit. From that time, until 2:00 P.M. on November 2, families decorate the tombs in the cemeteries and spend time with family members buried there, sharing offerings of food and drink with friends and relatives.

Oaxacans who live in other parts of the world and who are able to return for only one celebration during the year, try to be with their families at this time. Oaxaca is one of the few places in the world that preserves these customs and traditions, which is why it has become a favorite destination for El Dia de Los Muertos.

Ever caring, ever sharing, and hospitable, Oaxacans each year graciously receive thousands of strangers eager to witness their ceremonies in affirmation of life and what comes after. Visitors who come to learn about a culture different from their own and RESPECTULLY observe and appreciate all of the color and pageantry are welcome to spend time in cemeteries to enjoy the beauty of the decorations and the delicious food of the season. Some of you may even want to create an altar, complete with a calavera for a departed loved one.

The most popular cemeteries to visit in and near Oaxaca are as follows. -
( You may drive, hire a taxi, or take an organized tour offered at many travel agencies. Public transportation is an option also, although buses will undoubtedly be crowded at these times).

October 31 evening - Xoxocotlan, later that night - Santa María Atzompa

November 1 - San Miguel (Panteón General) in the city all day and evening.

November 2 late afternoon - San Antonino (sometimes this date changes depending on day of week - all travel agencies and tourist information centers should know of any changes).

November 2, evening and night - San Felipe del Agua

The City of Oaxaca also arranges events at the San Miguel Cemetery, such as exhibition/competition of altars, music, etc.

Fuente: http://www.mexconnect.com/mex_/travel/mdiaz/mdmuertos.html

MONTE ALBAN, UNA DE LAS 13 MARAVILLAS DE MEXICO

El Monte Albán fue declarado como una de los atractivos turísticos más importantes de la República Mexicana. Luego de 72 días de competencia, en donde se registraron 1.5 millones de votos, el antiguo centro ceremonial zapoteca, Monte Albán, fue electa como una de las 13 maravillas de México.

Este anuncio fue dado a conocer en el Palacio de Minería, certamen que fue convocado por La Secretaría de Turismo Federal a través del Consejo de Promoción Turística de México (CPTM) y la empresa televisiva TV Azteca.Fuente:oloramitierra.com.mx


En el acto 26 de los 32 gobernadores recibieron la estatuilla que los hace ganadores de esta contienda; entre los mandatarios galardonados estuvo el gobernador de Oaxaca, Ulises Ruiz Ortiz por la majestuosa zona arqueológica de Monte Albán.

Dani Baá, Cerro de piedras preciosas o Cerro Verde, nombre antiguo de esta mística zona, es desde 1987 patrimonio cultural de la humanidad por la Organización de las Naciones Unidas para la Educación, la Ciencia y la Cultura (UNESCO) y que hoy en día los mexicanos la reconocen como una maravilla digna de ser visitada.

Monte Albán, atractivo turístico de nuestra entidad, es reconocida por ser una de las primeras urbes construidas en mesoamérica, así como sus piedras grabadas y la cerámica gris encontrada en poco más de 190 tumbas, de las cuales destaca la número siete. En ella se encontró la mayor cantidad de obras de orfebrería en oro que se ha descubierto hasta la fecha.

El orden en que fueron nombradas las 13 maravillas creadas por el hombre , fue el siguiente: Campeche - zona Arqueológica kamut (Campeche), calles subterráneas (Guanajuato), Centro Histórico (DF), Chichen Itza (Yucatán), CH P (Chihuahua), Ciudad de Mazatlán (Sinaloa), Monte Albán (Oaxaca), Palenque(Chiapas), Paseo Santa Lucía (Monterrey), Tajín (Veracruz), Teotihuacan (Estado de México), Tulum (Quintana Roo) y la zona Arqueológica Zoxhicalco (Morelos).

Por tal motivo, La Secretaría de Turismo de Oaxaca invita a los turistas próximos a arribar a la entidad a visitar la zona arqueológica de Monte Albán que se encuentra ubicada al poniente de la ciudad de Oaxaca.
Fuente:http://www.oaxacatravel.com.mx/blog/destinos-turisticos-en-mexico-monte-alban-una-de-las-13-maravillas-de-mexico/

Oaxaca Back to Normal according to Mercury News reporter

Mexico special section: Return to Oaxaca
CITY GETS BACK TO NORMAL, BUT '06 UNREST TAKES TOLL
By Michael Martinez
Mercury News
Article Launched: 10/07/2007 02:01:11 AM PDT

OAXACA, Mexico - The zócalo of this colonial city looked exactly as I remembered it. Broad, inviting shade trees. Musicians playing mariachi or marimba. Strings of colored bulbs lighting up the night. Women balancing trays of fruit drinks on their heads, looking for thirsty buyers.
And lots of townsfolk and tourists. The last time I visited here, almost five years ago, my afternoons were often spent at the zócalo - the communal center of most Mexican cities - watching people come and go, or children play, or couples snuggle on a park bench. Everyone mingles easily here, filling the square from dawn until well past dusk.

But Oaxaca is still wobbling from a troublesome 2006. Tourism is down. Hotel rooms are empty. Some businesses have closed. The city's tourist-based economy is still struggling from a violent political protest last year that shut down the zócalo and put parts of the town under siege for several months.

Everything is peaceful now, but travelers have been reluctant to return. The Oaxaca Tourism Office reports that the number of visitors fell by 58 percent over the past six months of 2006 compared with the same period for 2005. And although tourism is trickling back, it has yet to return to normal.

"All eyes are on Dia de los Muertos as the holiday that brings visitors back," Ron Mader, a longtime resident of Oaxaca, said of the Day of the Dead celebration that takes place Nov. 1 and 2.

Martha Canseco, director of the Becari Language School, where I attended Spanish classes for three weeks in 2003, said the city has its luster back: "It's beautiful, as always, and there are good prices in the hotels and restaurants."
Indeed, Oaxaca, a city of 258,000 located about an hour's flight southeast of Mexico City, continues to be alluring and pristine - a mix of cultures and colors unlike anywhere else in Mexico. If you listen closely, you can hear dialects spoken by some of the 16 indigenous groups found in the state of Oaxaca (both the city and state share the same name), making it the most ethnically diverse region of the country.

Throughout the center of town, shops are filled with woven rugs, silver and gold jewelry, ceramics and unique folk art such as alebrijes (meticulously carved and painted figurines) and barro negro (shiny black pottery). Many storefronts and homes are painted in bright, lustrous colors.

The public markets are hives of non-stop activity where you can buy fresh meat, shoes, pottery, tamales, baskets and the Oaxacan delicacy known as chapulines - fried grasshoppers seasoned with salt and chili powder and eaten either alone or in a tortilla. Women stand behind counters and wave menus featuring tacos, tamales, chilaquiles and hot soup.

Along the dusty, narrow streets, small stores sell CDs, beaded necklaces, candy and T-shirts. Buses, many headed for beach towns like Puerto Escondido or Puerto Angel, go roaring by every afternoon and evening.

There are no remnants of the civil unrest that shook the city from May until November last year. A protest that began as an annual teachers' strike over wages and working conditions exploded into a clash between police and left-wing activists intent on removing the state governor from office. As many as a dozen people were killed, including one American who was shot while filming a demonstration. Federal police were finally called in to quell the violence.

Walking around the zócalo, with its freshly planted flower beds and gurgling fountains, it was difficult to believe any of this had happened. Police presence was minimal. At night, the city was serene and safe. People were friendly, welcoming.

"In my town, even the dogs wag their tails," said Judith Reyes Lopez, who owns the Ollin Bed and Breakfast, a 10-minute walk from the zócalo, with her husband, American-born Jon McKinley.

Recovery, however, has been slow. McKinley said occupancy at their 11-room B&B is down overall but is showing signs of revival. They enjoyed a good August, their best month in more than a year, and expect to be full for the traditional Day of the Dead celebration that begins later this month.

Other properties are still struggling. Several B&B owners, who formed an association (www.oaxacabedandbreakfast.org) to market themselves in the wake of the protests, say occupancy is less than 10 percent since October 2006. And language schools suffered a large enrollment drop that has yet to return to normal, Canseco said.

One school, Amigos del Sol, was unable to pay its monthly rent and had to relocate to a smaller facility. Becari couldn't pay rent for four months, Canseco said, but the landlord allowed the school to remain at its current location.

She's employing eight instructors instead of the 12 to 15 she usually has teaching classes. And although there were 21 students enrolled during my visit, 18 of them were supposed to attend last year but canceled because of the violence.

"Next year, we're going to see better results," Canseco said. "Even now, people are starting to ask about Oaxaca. But if something else happens, it will take years."

To attract visitors, the B&B association will host a seven-day cooking-school experience in March at a cost of $735 per person. It includes classes, dinners, tours and lectures. Discounts are available at member B&Bs, and some language schools are offering 20 percent discounts for participants who want to come early or extend their stay (www.aseseo.com.mx).

You can find great hotel rates even now. I paid $65 a night at the Ollin B&B and 650 pesos (about $59) at La Reja Hospederia - two small, nicely appointed properties with garden patios and friendly staffs. Breakfast is included at both. Dining at most restaurants is inexpensive, something that hasn't changed since my first trip.

Tourists are showing up - mainly from France and Germany, it appears - although there aren't a lot of them. The few Americans I met, though, seemed undeterred - as long as things stayed calm.

"I wouldn't have come if there was any fighting going on," said Aaron Semer, a graduate student from Seattle who was studying at Amigos del Sol. "But the presence of protesters wouldn't bother me. From everything I heard, things had stabilized."

Still, there are warnings. The U.S. State Department is advising travelers on its Web site (www.travel.state.gov) to check on current conditions before traveling to Oaxaca, although that advice will expire next week. Two German travelers I met, Simon and Christina Kramer of Nuremberg, said they found a similar advisory on their government's travel site.

"It said that we should be careful, that there might be demonstrations and the center of the town might be closed," Simon said.

"We were a little bit afraid," Christina said, "but we felt that it was a Mexican problem, and not a problem for tourists. The atmosphere, the cafes, the zócalo - it has been very easy, like a Mediterranean city."

In fact, some residents maintain that even during the worst of the troubles last year, Oaxaca was always safe to visit.

"I have never advised people not to come down," said Jack Corbett, a professor of public administration at Portland State University in Oregon who lives part time in Oaxaca. "Even at the height of the unrest, it was a matter of being attentive and prudent. At any given time, it was perfectly peaceful."

That's debatable. Gerardo Pinelo, in whose home I stayed during my first visit, said it was "very, very dangerous, especially around the zócalo." Canseco said she closed her school on days when there were large demonstrations.

"At times, I felt like I was living in a movie," she said. "We were sad to see what was happening to our city and our people. We were scared."

Those fears are gone now. Every day, the zócalo was filled with music. Every night, diners sat at outdoor tables drinking and eating. Children played well past dark. Young people filled dance clubs and coffee houses.

It was just as I left it, as if nothing had changed. But Oaxaca longs for tourists.

"Everybody is hungry for business," Jon McKinley said. "The only thing that will help is people."




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Contact Michael Martinez at mmartinez@mercurynews.com or (408) 920-5503.
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