Travelers' checks, ATM machines or cash: Oaxaca, Money and Exchange

Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.

You don’t need to take travelers’ checks, ATM’s are common, safe and reliable, and while pesos and American cash rule, a VISA card will get you through your trip to Oaxaca. But there innumerable other tidbits of advice to heed before heading out the door to the airport, questions you’ll have after landing, and issues around money which will arise in the course of your vacation.

Getting ready for the trip

ATMs
There are several ATM machines in the downtown core alongside almost every bank and even inside the odd pharmacy. Similarly in the suburbs you’ll find no shortage of machines in banks and pharmacies, as well as freestanding kiosks, and even inside large department and grocery stores.

It’s best to go into your bank before your trip to confirm your weekly limit, maximum number of weekly withdrawals and amount you can withdraw per day, and to have it noted on your file that you will be using your card in southern Mexico. Increase your maximums if possible. While it is rare for a machine to “eat” one’s card, just as it happens infrequently in your hometown it can happen here, and could take up to 2 or 3 days for you to get your card back. Accordingly, to be on the safe side take an extra card with you or make sure your partner has his card. If you have both an ATM and credit card from which you can access your account, use the ATM card so that in the unlikely event of a problem, you’ll still have plastic for withdrawals and making purchases.

CREDIT CARDS
Most establishments in the city accept credit cards, VISA being the most widely welcomed. Once again, as part of your pre-trip planning contact your credit card companies and inquire and advise regarding the following:
1) make sure it is noted that you will be making purchases out of the country;
2) check your single purchase dollar limit and increase it if possible, perhaps for only the period of time you will be on vacation;
3) ask how exchange rates will be calculated and if there is a surcharge, so you can make a more informed decision as to whether it’s more advantageous to use that credit card and increase the balance in your points program, or cash;
4) if you intend to rent a car in Oaxaca, ask if your gold or platinum card will cover the rental car’s theft, damage, liability, and so on, and confirm the answer by reading the cardholder agreement’s terms, conditions and restrictions, all with a view to avoiding having to pay for such “extra” charges when you pick up your vehicle.

Remember that not all merchants, especially in the towns and villages where you’ll be buying handicrafts, accept credit cards, and often those who do so will charge a premium of up to 6% to cover their commission costs. Using a credit card may reduce your bargaining power significantly. Of course when dining at a small eatery or making purchases on the street, you’ll only be able to use American cash or pesos, and if you use American cash you won’t likely get as good an exchange rate as you would through a conventional exchange house (casa de cambio) or bank.

AMERICAN, CANADIAN OR OTHER CASH
In Oaxaca, if you’re paying with foreign currency, make it US dollars. However, Canadians, for example, should not feel the need to go out and buy yankee greenbacks. Years ago things were different, and it was difficult if not impossible to change our Canadian dollars into foreign currency while out of the country. We felt that the American dollar ruled the world. Today, here in Mexico pesos are just fine, and more importantly most of the casas de cambio offer competitive rates for Canadian dollars and other major currencies. There’s no need, and it’s not economically prudent, to pay to have Canadian changed into American, and then upon arriving in Oaxaca again pay to exchange into a third currency. It’s true enough that while there are places which exchange only US dollars, within about 3 blocks of the downtown central square (the zócalo) at least four casas de cambio can be found which exchange major foreign currencies. One word to the wise: do not bring foreign bills which have any rips, writing on them, or with ink or other stains. The rule of thumb at a casa de cambio is to reject all damaged or defaced foreign bills.


TRAVELERS’ CHECKS
A more seasoned readership will recall always using travelers’ checks. But that was before the age of ATMs, paypal and the realization that not everyone in a strange land is out to rob tourists. And besides, each of us had his trusty money belt. Many still “don’t leave home without it,” but often find making such transactions a bit cumbersome. There may be (but generally is not) a nominal premium charged for exchange, it takes time to get out that passport and have the data recorded on each check, and if you’re careful as you should be, the advisability of carrying them is reduced. Institutions will accept travelers’ checks, but often have to pay a commission for having them deposited into their Mexican peso accounts. They will generally be accepted at major retail outlets, hotels and B & Bs and in the craft villages at larger workshops, but there may be a small cost involved. Having stated this, often the retailer will be prepared to absorb any fees. Many Oaxacans in the tourism industry will simply hang onto travelers’ checks and then deposit them into US dollar accounts they have in The States.

PAYPAL
Paypal has revolutionized small scale, international, commodity and services purchase and sale transactions. The commission rate is modest, it’s an extremely safe and secure means by which to buy and sell, and it has its own safeguards to protect both sides of a transaction from the unscrupulous and the naïve. You may have used paypal to make your deposit on reserving your accommodations, for a cooking school class or in arranging an ecotourism trek. You can likely pay the balance owing once you’re in Oaxaca, the same way, as long as you don’t mind the modest charges involved. The main additional advantage to paypal is that money exchanges hands instantly. And even in the craft villages there are proprietors who either accept paypal or have a colleague, relative or friend ready to assist in facilitating transactions for the purchase and sale of rugs, alebrijes, etc. (especially when a custom order is placed). Paypal is simply one additional payment method which has come of age in Oaxaca.

You’re now in Mexico

The rate for changing US or Canadian dollars into pesos tends to be better for consumers at the airport in Mexico City than in Oaxaca, so do not hesitate to get started exchanging while awaiting your connecting flight to Oaxaca. In fact, the airport rates, at least in the past for changing Canadian dollars to pesos, have been better than when buying much larger quantities of pesos through one of the well-known US or Canadian money exchange companies! The ground floor casas de cambio tend to offer more competitive rates than those on the upper level, but do your checking to ensure you are getting the best tipo de cambio.

Once in Oaxaca, remember that often the difference in exchange rates may be .03 of a peso, so consider the amount you want to exchange, and figure out if it’s really worth your time to spend a half hour to save $1.50. Think about how often you give a couple of pesos to someone on the street or to a cabbie when you get confused, or that extra dollar you throw away for a fancy coffee.

When planning to take a day trip to the villages in which you might be considering purchasing cotton textiles, painted clay figures, or other Oaxacan crafts, think about stocking up on cash the evening before touring. Otherwise, you may be in the awkward position of wanting to make a purchase and not relishing or being able to use a credit card, and asking your tour guide or another couple along with you to loan you cash until you get back to the hotel. It’s uncomfortable for all involved. Avoid the problem altogether and get your cash the day before. There are in fact ATMs in towns such as Etla, Tlacolula, Ocotlán and even el Tule, but do you really want to spend any time during your day searching for a machine, when you could be seeing the sights?

Remember you’re withdrawing pesos, so when you start punching in figures at the ATM, don’t stop at 500 … it’s not dollars. Add another zero and then confirm the amount.

If you’ll be staying in any of the northern suburbs such as San Felipe, Reforma, Loma Linda, Volcanes or Guadelupe Victoria, driving south towards the touring highways and downtown you’ll likely pass at least three ATM machines. Downtown they are all over, along with the banks and casas de cambio. The latter are located within a couple of minute walk from the zócalo, on Independencia, Hidalgo, Garcia Vigil and Valdivieso. The banks, with competitive rates as well, are also located within a couple of blocks of the square.

If using travelers’ checks, always have some with you. After all, the reason you’re using them is the protection they afford. Then you can take advantage of the odd aberration in exchange rate you may encounter, which may be gone tomorrow. Similarly take some cash with you wherever you go, for the same reason or for unexpected purchases.

TAKE REASONABLE CARE
Loss and theft generally occur when you’re not careful, and in circumstances where crowd density is high, such as lining up at Guelaguetza time, Saturday at the abastos market, Noche de Rábanos and Christmas eve in the zócalo, and in the course of parades and processions. Although it’s not hard to identify tourists, still, don’t flash large bills or wads, and keep large expensive cameras in a nylon shopping bag or in a purse in front of you. A thief is more likely to be attracted to a purse slung over your shoulder or a backpack trailing your spine, than to closed or zipped bags in front of you and cradled with one arm.

Oaxaca is no different than other popular tourist destinations with respect to safety and security for the traveler. Common sense and vigilance ensure an uneventful vacation in terms of avoiding problems regarding money and belongings. Due diligence in terms of a bit of reading before your trip will never hurt, and while here simply remember that you are in a foreign land and that you do in fact stick out like a sore thumb. On the other hand, in the unlikely event that you encounter any difficulties of any kind, you’ll find that even complete strangers are more than willing to assist you in overcoming adversity, ranging from figuring out how to assist in facilitating a purchase or accessing money, to giving a wide variety of advice concerning other problems you might encounter as well as local mores and accepted custom.

NOTE: The foregoing is not intended to be nor should it be relied on by the reader as constituting legal, accounting, financial or commodity or service transaction advice, and is intended only as a lay opinion based solely upon the personal experiences of a Canadian who has been involved in small-scale monetary transactions in Oaxaca since 1991.

Alvin Starkman together with wife Arlene operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ). Alvin received his masters in social anthropology in 1978, and his law degree in 1984. Thereafter he was a litigator in Toronto until taking early retirement. He and his family were frequent visitors to Oaxaca between 1991 and when they became permanent residents in 2004. Alvin reviews restaurants, writes about life and cultural traditions in Oaxaca, and tours couples and families to the villages.

Mole y Tlayudas Nuevos Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial

OAXACA.- La cocina oaxaqueña fue elevada al rango de Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial
del Estado por el Congreso local. Los chapulines, quesillo, mezcal, tlayudas,
totopos, moles, entre otros guisados, fueron declarados riquezas del estado.

"La Sexagésima Legislatura exhorta al Gobernador del Estado, Ulises Ruiz Ortiz, a
efecto de que las Secretarías de Turismo y Cultura, realicen actividades tendientes
a la identificación, preservación, protección, promoción, valorización, enseñanza y
revitalización de la Cocina Oaxaqueña", se lee en el decreto aprobado por los
diputados oaxaqueños.

Claudia Silva Fernández, Presidenta de la Comisión de Turismo, reconoció que
actualmente otros estado se han robado la autoría de productos simbólicos como el
quesillo y el mezcal.

Indicó que con este decreto, la cocina oaxaqueña y sus variantes deben ser
protegidas legalmente.

Ahora resulta que los productores de quesillo están en Puebla, como está la
globalización, aparecen otros estados como creadores de nuestros productos, y con
esto, vigilamos que esta situación no nos pegue, expresó.

Reforma publicó el pasado 13 de enero que el mercado del queso Oaxaca lo dominan,
incluso en la entidad, productores de Puebla, Veracruz y Chiapas, y que empresarios
chinos han intentado comprar a productores del municipio de Reyes Etla, considerado
cuna del quesillo, la receta del lácteo.

El decreto que protege a la comida oaxaqueña está fundamentado en la promulgación de
la Convención para la Salvaguardia del Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial de la
Organización de las Naciones Unidas, adoptado en París, Francia, en el año 2003.

De acuerdo con la diputada priista, la declaración obliga a la administración de
Ulises Ruiz a realizar promoción de la gastronomía de manera especial o de integrar
esta característica en la publicidad que se hace de la entidad en el extranjero y el
País.

Silva denunció que la cocina no ha recibido la importancia que tiene y por ende, no
ha sido promocionada.

En 2005, la gastronomía oaxaqueña fracasó en su intento de que la UNESCO la nombrara
Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad.

La diputada priista consideró que en Oaxaca la cocina es un arte. "Las comidas
oaxaqueñas constituyen un complejo entramado de prácticas y conocimientos, valores y
creencias, técnicas y representaciones sobre qué, cuándo, cómo, con quién y por qué
se come lo que se come".

Reconoció que la gastronomía oaxaqueña es el segundo atractivo turístico de la
entidad, después de los monumentos históricos, sitios coloniales y recursos
naturales.
Fuente: http://noticias-oax.com.mx/articulos.php?id_sec=15&id_art=59518&id_ejemplar=1670

Affordable Oaxaca as a locale for any grand fiesta

If you’re getting married, turning 50, or planning that anniversary bash...

Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.

They say that Mexicans really know how to party. Here in Oaxaca we do it in spades, because it’s part of a longstanding cultural tradition. Also because it’s affordable, certainly relative to what it would cost in the US or Canada. What you would love to do at home but can’t because it would cost $50,000, or more, you can do here in Oaxaca for $10,000, or less, with a large glossy photo album of memories to boot.

First of all, both you and your partner must be passionate about the city, its people, and its institutions, and willing to experience all that Oaxacan custom has to offer for your next big celebratory rite of passage. Then once you’re convinced that at least some of your closest hometown kin and friends would be interested in making the trek and participating in the festivities, you’re Oaxaca-bound. Even better if you have friends and family scattered throughout the continent and further abroad who would be willing to gather together in Oaxaca, making the celebration a reunion of sorts, á la The Big Chill (albeit different circumstances). A couple of years ago a few celebrants stayed with us, part of a wedding party for a bride and groom in the entertainment industry. Actors, singers, musicians and producers came from all corners of the globe, and shared many magical moments with the couple in a storybook setting just outside of the city.

For our part, over the past ten years, first as frequent visitors to, and now as residents of the city, we’ve thrown three such large fiestas, each in a totally different setting: a downtown banquet hall noted for its revolutionary period décor; a former hacienda with expansive, immaculately groomed grounds and gardens, and; a rural venue in which a rodeo performance (with our daughter a participant) was part of the merriment. Of course there are other more familiar options such as hotel ballrooms, and restaurants serving up the best that this mecca of culinary seduction has to offer.

But it’s the pageantry and the availability of a broad diversity of offerings which make such an event extraordinary … and you can have it all: a colorful folkloric troupe performing a guelaguetza to live music; an eight-piece dance band playing to both modern and traditional tastes, in addition to mariachis, marimbas and Andes-music-style troubadours; table arrangements of the most exotic of tropical flowers; a unique array of adornments for the hall; other regional customs geared to your particular celebration; and the list continues. A well-orchestrated evening (or daytime fiesta stretching well into the night) will include ceremonial song and dance, and episodic events indicative of local mores peppering the affair, so as to maintain both rhythm and ritual for seven to twelve hours.

But not to fret the meal ending without there being further indulging of gastronomic proportion for the duration: the Oaxacan tradition is to not terminate a function without offering a second entirely different meal well after cake and cognac have been consumed, making for a feast of truly bacchanalian proportion.

Meal options range from the high end continental genre, to traditional Oaxacan fare, to the ever-so-customary barbacoa --- goat or sheep with all the trimmings prepared in an in-ground oven, with its own peculiar pomp and ceremony … and everything else in between. Usually tamales, chilaquiles or pozole make up that late-night after dinner pick-me-up, once your dance legs have begun to wane. Not to be overlooked, there is no shortage of readily available quality wines and champagnes, scotches and other hard liquors, apertifs, and of course Mexico’s renowned beer, mezcal and tequila.

And after all is done, you don’t even have to worry about entertaining your guests for the balance of their trip. There are several small tour companies and individual guides in the city, with vans accommodating up to 15 passengers, thereby enabling your vacationers, perhaps in groups based on particular interests, to select from several routes in the central valleys just outside of the city, so they can visit the craft villages, towns on their market days, ruins and other sites. And of course the downtown core with its colonial churches, museums, galleries and shops will hold the attention of every class of tourist for at least three additional days. You can even consider printing up a few downtown walking tours to distribute to each attendee.

With Continental’s attractively priced flight routes expanding, travelers from virtually everywhere in North American are able to reach Oaxaca via Houston and avoid Mexico City as a transfer point. Other airlines have now come to the table with their own discounted fares, the implication being that your guests can now land in Oaxaca for less than it would have cost them seven or eight years ago! Making the trip even more affordable for your relatives and friends, just for the asking most restaurants, hotels, and members of the Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast Association will be more than accommodating in terms of offering courtesy reductions to your group. You’re providing not only a remarkable cultural encounter they would not otherwise experience, but a vacation at an extremely attractive price.

Cuba, Hawaii and Mexico’s Caribbean and Pacific resort towns have become popular destinations for nuptials and other celebrations. Oaxaca will not be outdone by such venues, and in fact offers more. In addition to providing an unmatched richness of past and present cultural traditions contributing to the city’s designation as a UNESCO world heritage site, the State of Oaxaca boasts its own beaches for swimming, lazing and sipping margaritas. The sand, sun and surf worshipers amongst your crowd have the option of extending their trip with a quick jaunt to the coastal resort towns of Huatulco and Puerto Escondido.

Oaxaca’s businesses in the social event planning industry are ready and anxious to accommodate just about every fiesta its visitors might contemplate, with color, flare and imagination unmatched. And with a resident rabbi rumored to be on the horizon, soon we might even be able to accommodate that Bar Mitvah you’re planning.

Alvin Starkman together with wife Arlene operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ). Alvin received his masters in social anthropology in 1978, and his law degree in 1984. Thereafter he was a litigator in Toronto until taking early retirement. He and his family were frequent visitors to Oaxaca between 1991 and when they became permanent residents in 2004. Alvin reviews restaurants, writes about life and cultural traditions in Oaxaca, and tours couples and families to the villages. The Starkman’s most recent fiesta was their 25th wedding anniversary party held in December, 2007. They are now contemplating assisting others with event planning.