Summer in Oaxaca...encouraging news as of June 26, 2007

Summertime in Oaxaca, current as of June 26, 2007

Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.

According to reports in one of the Oaxacan dailies today, and in particular comments made by the Director of the state’s Hotel and Motel Association, the news looks very promising for this year’s high tourist season, especially for the Guelaguetza held during the last two weeks of July. Actually, the season, marked by colourful dance, song, procession, and much more, begins now and extends well into August, and is a festive time of the year far beyond the traditional performances held the last two Mondays of July.

The news is extremely encouraging for tourists, merchants and those Oaxacans perhaps more integrally involved with tourism such as guides, craft vendors and accommodation owners. While it has been reported that hotel occupancy is at 30% for the Guelaguetza, this means that there are still 4,200 rooms available for tourists. And for those in the industry, it means they can now look at what incentives they can afford to give to reach peak occupancy between now and mid July. It’s a classic case of win-win … hotels and B & B’s being encouraged to offer discounts to reach 95% occupancy, and tourists reaping the benefits.

Not only will sightseers get a break in cost of lodging, but they’ll be assured of even more personalized attention in the villages, towns and throughout other sites peppering the traditional tour routes in the central valleys, and as well when visiting shops, museums, galleries and restaurants, downtown and in the suburbs.

The Director of The Association, Fredy Alcántara Carrillo, has correctly suggested that even if we have protests in the zócalo throughout July (it now seems like headway is being made to resolve any outstanding issues), Oaxaca is much more than the zócalo. Protests, sit-ins and marches around the zócalo have been occurring in Oaxaca for generations, and in fact the peaceful occupation of the zócalo has been part of the allure for many travelers. So in this respect I disagree with Mr. Alcántara, to the extent that he does not acknowledge that the zócalo during times of occupation is still an attraction. Teachers and members of other foreign unions often find the Mexican way of striking fascinating and a stark contrast to their experiences in the staid North.

It’s always been safe, and certainly interesting, wandering through the zócalo when there have been peaceful protests such as those currently underway. There is now more colour and more pageantry, and more vendors plying their wares in the zócalo and the adjoining Alameda de León, than we’ve seen in a long time.

But as the Director additionally points out, Oaxaca is much more than its zócalo. It’s Monte Albán, it’s Mitla and Yagul; it’s the plethora of museums, cafés, galleries and churches outside of the zócalo; it’s the tour routes to the craft villages and market towns and other fascinating sites such as Hierve el Agua, the artistic hand-made paper mill and the Center for the Arts both located in the spectacular San Agustín Etla setting, and of course it’s tasting and witnessing the production of mezcal, of chocolate and of our famous moles. It’s attending a cooking class, having a temazcal, or happening upon an ad hoc unadvertised fiesta while walking the streets in the city or a village. And all of this will continue, as it in fact did during summertime last year, without incident and without tourists being precluded from experiencing the magic of Oaxaca. Personally, last summer while showing friends and family around the city and surrounding towns and villages, not one day went by when I was impeded from visiting the black pottery village, the alebrije towns, the colourful market days (in Tlacolula, Ocotlán, Zaachila and Etla), the Aguilar sisters, el Tule, Hierve el Agua, or imbibing a bit of mezcal in the mountain villages high above the city. This, all that we know as “the magic of Oaxaca,” will continue throughout 2007 …as will the Guelaguetza. If by some chance not in the traditional Guelaguetza auditorium, then in the towns and villages. If government or protesters are not prepared to ensure that it takes place in the usual setting, there will be, as has been the case in years gone by, Guelaguetzas by the people and for the people, in innumerable towns and villages. While I’ve seen it in the auditorium, I’ve similarly been witness to and awe-struck by the Guelaguetza in Mitla, in Etla, in Zaachila, and even as performed by youths and students of folkloric dancing, with just as much pageantry and excitement.